This cave was once inhabited and now boasts many hard routes, many of which rely on manufactured holds. Despite this, the huge overhanging cave makes for some excellent climbs and a great workout, especially on rainy days. Three 5.12s, and three 5.13s can be found here. Three of the routes use natural holds, and the others utilize some drilled two finger pockets. It is easy to cruise to the cave after warming up on Primo Wall to finish your day with some super hard climbing. Enjoy. The same seasonal information applies as Primo Wall; great in the summer especially if it is rainy, and brutally cold in the winter.
Nomad's Cave is near the top of Clear Creek. Park in a large pullout at 11.3 miles on the north side. This is just past tunnel 6. Often there is a tyrolean traverse in place from this pullout or downstream 100 feet, and if in place this makes the approach easy. Just cross the stream and find the trail to the cliff. If there is no tyrolean, then you should drive another 0.5 miles up the canyon to where the creek crosses under the road. Park in a pullout here (south side) and find the rough trail that heads back downstream on the north side. This trail is good most of the way, but one will encounter some exposed scrambling above cliffs and the creek. Take caution. This trail leads you past the Nomad's Cave on the way to the Primo Wall. If you continue on this trail it will take you to the Crystal Tower farther downstream.
Start matched on the seam down and right. Traverse left and up, on some bad holds and even worse feet, until you get to the final dyno to reach to the lip. For me personally this is the hardest problem I have ever done, but consensus puts it a little lower to get only 11 points.This problem has a stand start somewhere in the V8-9 range. I was told this problem was V7 and after 5 days of trying it and still not having done all the moves I know I had been had. So the name - no surprise - comes...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
This place would be kick ass if it weren't for all the bullshit chipping. I would like to meet the guy who put the routes up and give him a hobby. These routes must have taken way too long to be worth doing. Oh well, some people are just assholes.
I first did this route at the end of a long day of repointing, down canyon. It was suggested to me, by the person who manufactured it, as a good training route, so I did it as a final session burn. I thought the route was fun - not too hard and good for a quick pump. I did try the extension, but didn't feel fresh enough to commit to the mono. This section definitely makes the route harder, although not necessarily higher quality. All of that having been said, my overall impression of this cave and this style of route development is mixed. On one hand, I feel that this is an unattractive, dirty little cave, so why not just enjoy it as a training area. On the other hand, with so much of Colorado's sparsely available new territory rapidly being developed, we should earnestly consider preserving such areas for advancing the sport. In other words, these routes could have been preserved for climbers, who aspire to meet the challenges presented to them by nature. I really enjoyed Head Like A Hole - at The Sex Cave - but think that its intersecting, manufactured routes (Stone Cold Modern, et. al.) tarnish its appeal. Maybe a referendum should be presented to the local climbing community, suggesting that all of the chipped and drilled routes on The Front Range be filled in to as close to original condition as possible - leaving the bolts intact. Such a pro-active stance would set a precedent, clearly stating the community's sentiment toward such tactics. It would also open a fairly substantial quantity of new, "natural" territory for talented climbers. Lets face it, the best climbers in the world have made 5.15 a reality. One of those climbers is a local Coloradoan. The Front Range is full of top-level climbers, who would quickly re-establish those routes in good style. Apathy and disparaging repartee will not solve this problem; responsible community action will. If no action is taken, you can look forward to the development of more atrocities like The Sport Park. As a business owner, it is my understanding that business permits and liability insurance have to be procured in order to establish a commercial climbing gym, like The Sport Park. Think about it!!! KC
On 10/1/2012, I found a down jacket and a water bottle left in the cave. Let me know the brand and color of the jacket, and I can get it back to you whenever. The only reason I didn't leave it was because someone stole the draws I left on "Squeeze Play" after I was done working it as well as one of them off of "Public Solitude."