A nice rock that offers both trad and sport climbs. The quality is decent although somewhat flaky. Routes need to be climbed more often. Routes are in the sun most of the day. There are two 2-bolt rap anchors. One is on the SW corner, and one is on the west face. Two ropes are needed to descend. Routes range from 5.6 to 5.9.
Park at the lot for Uncle Willie's. Walk up the main trail towards the Astro Domes. When you get near the Astro Domes you will see a trail heading east. This trail will take you toward Nomad Dome which is visible to the east. It has a crack that runs from bottom to top. Scrambling leads you to the rock.
A fun and well-protected face climb to the right of Willard that angles up and left to join that route at it's anchors. Rap off from the anchors of Willard or continue up and top out via Willard. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
There are two sets of bolts on top, but the ones to rap off are located more or less atop Willard and face to the south. Make a rap from these bolts south to slabs below with one rope. Two ropes are not necessary.
I like that the general description of this formations says that it offers both "trad and sport."
I guess Ben might be "sport" (didn't go up to the base of the route) but both Willard and the Final Furious Farsi are definitely not. It's twenty feet to the first bolt on Willard, and there's some nasty swing potential on Farsi...not to mention 10-15 foot runout between bolts standard.
Getting there. You can see it, but can you get to it?! Good luck! I'd say the best advice I can give is to go into the wonderland and stay east in the main valley until the south end of the south Astrodome is right to your west. You'll diverge from the main valley trail to a smaller trail to your east (right). Go north until you're just a hundred feet or so south of Surprise rock (not the 150 yards that Bartlett's book calls for) then turn off to the southeast on an unlikely looking little corridor and you'll get there. If you can see the three roofs of Freak Brother's Dome at any point, you're too far north and too far west. right before you turn off the trail, you should see the south end of Freak Brothers.
You're still gonna get lost the first time you go there.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Nov 29, 2013
OMG Steve! There's no way these are sport routes. Trail to the dome was well trodden and also cairned at critical spots - so, easy to follow for the careful. I headed east too early, up a drainage but it wasn't that bad, returning I followed the trail all the way to the main Wonderland trail.