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Wild West Wall
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Master-Debater, The T 
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Noises in the Night S 
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Noises in the Night 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: S. Maciejowski T. Peckham Fall 2009
Page Views: 625
Submitted By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012

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Description 

The bolt line in the middle of the face. Sustained 5.6-5.7 moves characterize this route. Fantastic position above the beaver ponds. Finish to bolted anchor on blueberry ledge or finish up Gardner's Delight (5.4 60') to the top of the cliff.

Location 

This is the line that takes the middle of the face over the small overlap at 2/3s height. There is a bolt in a 20' high slab at the start just below a shallow bushy ledge.

Protection 

Bolts.


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By skiingclimber
Oct 21, 2012

Enjoyed this climb today, but as I was working my way up to the overlap, I noticed how run-out it is. Afterwards, I thought back to the climb and realized that what I thought at the time were peculiar imperfections in the rock were probably blown-out bolt holes. Certainly goes at 5.6/5.7, but it becomes real serious when your mind starts churning and you realize the real potential for the 30-40 foot fall onto the ledge below...
By Seth Maciejowski
Oct 23, 2012

I'm glad you enjoyed this line. It is a particular favorite of mine.
I climbed this a few weeks ago and all the bolts were there. There is 10 bolts on this pitch equating to a bolt every 10-12' Yes you will take a fairly good winger if you blow a clip (I believe Derrek D could fill you in on that), but I would not consider this run out. Consider this good training for any typical NE slab pitch....