Nocturne  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Bernard Gillett, Paul Bodnar, 2006 Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on Mar 22, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Nocturne is a very fun mixed sport/trad climb on the main December Wall. It begins with a steep, juggy, hand traverse. A perplexing but finally not so hard move leads to a bulge. The crux is a very high step while laybacking a rounded arête. That's the end of the bolted climbing. Nice 5.9 moves up connected cracks a flakes lead to a steep final corner and the P1 anchors. We did not climb P2. The P2 10b crux looks to be a finger/layback crack immediately above the belay with good gear but poor feet. This section is about 15' long. Above that the route angles left and then up and apparently is easier.

Location 

Midway between Caesar's Crack and the big, right-facing corner of I Promise is a small pine bush about 12 feet off the ground. The route hand traverses right past this bush then climbs up and slightly right to the anchors.

Protection 

6 bolts lead to just past the crux. Currently, there is a ring on the last bolt, apparently so those who don't want to do the trad upper half can bail. A single standard rack suffices for the 5.9 upper half.