Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
December Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Long December T 
Arborvitae T 
Caesar's T 
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 
Crown Molding T 
Door Jam T 
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 
Life After James S 
Little Caesar T,S 
Mnemonic Plague T 
Moonstruck T,S 
Nocturne T,S 
Nosebleed T 
Ranklands of Perfidy T 
Red Tag T,S 
Seams Alright T 
Short Takes T 
Telegraph Road S 
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Nocturne 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett, Paul Bodnar, 2006
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
I think this is Nocturne.

Description 

Nocturne is a very fun mixed sport/trad climb on the main December Wall. It begins with a steep, juggy, hand traverse. A perplexing but finally not so hard move leads to a bulge. The crux is a very high step while laybacking a rounded arÍte. That's the end of the bolted climbing. Nice 5.9 moves up connected cracks a flakes lead to a steep final corner and the P1 anchors. We did not climb P2. The P2 10b crux looks to be a finger/layback crack immediately above the belay with good gear but poor feet. This section is about 15' long. Above that the route angles left and then up and apparently is easier.

Location 

Midway between Caesar's Crack and the big, right-facing corner of I Promise is a small pine bush about 12 feet off the ground. The route hand traverses right past this bush then climbs up and slightly right to the anchors.

Protection 

6 bolts lead to just past the crux. Currently, there is a ring on the last bolt, apparently so those who don't want to do the trad upper half can bail. A single standard rack suffices for the 5.9 upper half.


Comments on Nocturne Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rich Kelly
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Did p2 today and Ivan nailed the description accurately.
To get down from the top of p2, move right (east) 20' to anchors on p2 of a Long December.
By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Mar 18, 2014

One distinct crux, the rest of the climbing is pretty pleasant 5.9.