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Nobody's Home 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Topher Donahue
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: Cedar Wright on Apr 23, 2012
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Description 

This is a variation to Country Club or for extra hard man proudness points... Englishman's Home. This is probably my favorite climb at Castle... what a CLASSIC! It's kind of like a harder version of The Wisdom in that you place your gear, and then punch it for longer than you want to! Topher called this the best whipper in Colorado! At the roof on the "second pitch", traverse right out the pumpy undercling, slam in a piece, and then punch it for dear life up and back left on a wild, sloping struggle of fear. Rejoin Country Club at the anchor and if you are a real bad ass... take the victory whip:)


Protection 

Use the same as C.C. plus a couple purple juniors for the undercling.


Location 

Climb up Country Club Crack and go right at the roof on P2.



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By nelissam
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Topher really unlocked a gem here!

By Chris Archer
Apr 30, 2012

I thought that the roof had been done in 1987, and called Domestic Abuse? FA Doub, Arran, Panjiller. Does Nobody's Home climb different terrain?

By topher donahue
May 1, 2012

Only 30 feet of new terrain, Chris, but it's a wild 30! I talked to Eric Doub (the name Nobody's Home was suggested by Eric, in fact) a while ago about it, and he said Domestic Abuse traverses the roof all the way out to the arete before going up on easier terrain to the Country Club anchor. Nobody's Home goes about halfway out the roof before going straight up to the Country Club anchor.

I know the Nobody's Home headwall has been toproped for years by going out to the arete and then foot traversing back across the sloping ramp that is part of Nobody's Home, but I don't know of it being led that way. Anyone? Classic MP - soon the name, FA list, and ensuing thread will be longer than the new terrain on the climb....

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Regardless of who did it first or what it is called, it is a very cool and hard finish to either CCC or Englishman's Home. Good job on the lead, Topher!

By Chris Archer
May 1, 2012

Thanks for the explanation, Topher! It sounds like an awesome addition! Kudos on the heady lead!

By Eric Doub
Oct 22, 2012

I was wondering when you succeeded in leading this, Topher. Very cool! Yes, that is correct: Domestic Abuse goes out the undercling and orangutans out right to the arete. On the FA in 1987 (100% from the bottom up, and yes, some good whippers cleaning lichen on the go...), I belayed at the arete.

As to Nobody's Home, thanks for keeping the name. Having toproped this many times, I kept thinking "This would be a good ABC Headpoint" - meaning an elementary or introductory level headpoint, in the sense that you can fall a long distance but are unlikely to get hurt.

Way to go!

Has anyone else led this since you? Good Spectator Value, to be sure!

By VARMENT
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 10, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

My buddy Adam Brink and I managed to send this on lead last weekend via Englishman's Home. More folks should go for it. The whip is great, and you can finagle a purple Master cam about 15 ft before the anchor cutting the runout a bit shorter.