This is a variation to Country Club or for extra hard man proudness points... Englishman's Home. This is probably my favorite climb at Castle... what a CLASSIC! It's kind of like a harder version of The Wisdom in that you place your gear, and then punch it for longer than you want to! Topher called this the best whipper in Colorado! At the roof on the "second pitch", traverse right out the pumpy undercling, slam in a piece, and then punch it for dear life up and back left on a wild, sloping struggle of fear. Rejoin Country Club at the anchor and if you are a real bad ass... take the victory whip:)
Use the same as C.C. plus a couple purple juniors for the undercling.
Only 30 feet of new terrain, Chris, but it's a wild 30! I talked to Eric Doub (the name Nobody's Home was suggested by Eric, in fact) a while ago about it, and he said Domestic Abuse traverses the roof all the way out to the arete before going up on easier terrain to the Country Club anchor. Nobody's Home goes about halfway out the roof before going straight up to the Country Club anchor.
I know the Nobody's Home headwall has been toproped for years by going out to the arete and then foot traversing back across the sloping ramp that is part of Nobody's Home, but I don't know of it being led that way. Anyone? Classic MP - soon the name, FA list, and ensuing thread will be longer than the new terrain on the climb....
By adam brink From: Boulder, CO May 1, 2012 rating: 5.127b+27VIII+E6 6b
Regardless of who did it first or what it is called, it is a very cool and hard finish to either CCC or Englishman's Home. Good job on the lead, Topher!
I was wondering when you succeeded in leading this, Topher. Very cool! Yes, that is correct: Domestic Abuse goes out the undercling and orangutans out right to the arete. On the FA in 1987 (100% from the bottom up, and yes, some good whippers cleaning lichen on the go...), I belayed at the arete.
As to Nobody's Home, thanks for keeping the name. Having toproped this many times, I kept thinking "This would be a good ABC Headpoint" - meaning an elementary or introductory level headpoint, in the sense that you can fall a long distance but are unlikely to get hurt.
Way to go!
Has anyone else led this since you? Good Spectator Value, to be sure!
My buddy Adam Brink and I managed to send this on lead last weekend via Englishman's Home. More folks should go for it. The whip is great, and you can finagle a purple Master cam about 15 ft before the anchor cutting the runout a bit shorter.