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Nob Job 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts: 1977
Page Views: 1,349
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Approach 

From the end of S-Crack on "Lunch Ledge" traverse 80' right/east to an overhang with a crack. This is the start of the route.


Description 

A very serious route. The consequences of falling on lead almost anywhere along this route will be significant up here. The route is for expert climbers with a cool head when things get dicey. Trust me... they will get dicey. The route is rarely done, so it will likely be flakey. If you thought the first pitch was mind-blowing, the second pitch will be just plain sick. Hang low on the midway belay so you can dodge your falling leader.


Protection 

I recommend bringing 4 cams (0.5"-1.5"), 8 runners (24") & 16 carabiners. There are three bolts on the 2nd hanging belay now. Count your blessings.


Descent 

Rappel 150' 2 times to "Lunch Ledge".
Rappel 90' to a pair of anchors in no man's land.
Rappel 130' to S-Matrix.
Rappel 80' to ground & scramble or 200' to the Standard Thumb chimney start.



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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Nov 14, 2007

I love the description. Sounds like there might be a story behind it.

By tenesmus
Nov 14, 2007

Where does this start in relation to the S-Crack? How do you get off?

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 6, 2009

The 2nd pitch looks terrifying (I looked at it on rappel).
The runouts make S-direct look grid-bolted: I think I counted 2 bolts and 1 knob to tie-off for a pitch that's slightly longer than P2 of S-direct, less featured and quite a bit steeper. Seems like a VERY serious endeavor...

By jack roberts
May 31, 2010

Come on you guys. This route is pretty tame by today's standards..........

I'm just glad it has not been bolted...............there is a story............

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 31, 2010

Maybe in terms of rating... but today's standards of grid bolting steep stuff don't exactly translate well to hard slabs and big falls. I wouldn't call any of these old school thin lines tame and based on the amount of traffic they see I'd say I'm justified. You guys were just way strong and not afraid to get after it!
There is a story? Please, do tell...

By Ben Folsom
Jun 1, 2010

Great route! I remember following Lance up the second pitch and him telling me not to fall. When I arrived at the hanging belay, it turned out to be a single, rusty quarter incher. From the description, it sounds like that belay is now less exciting.
A good linkup is to climb Coyne Crack - S Crack - Nob Job.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

Definately a route worth doing if you are working on your slab technique. Little Cottonwood is a great place to develop these skills for application in other locations. I guess we did a lot more slab climbing in the past since I do not think this was anywhere near X rated. Just be creative (lassoo nobs from below to protect the first big run out.)