Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Mike C. Robinson, Ryan Barber, (first known ascent) 11/5/11 |
Page Views: | 2,210 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Barber on Nov 7, 2011 |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
Pitch 1 (50 Feet): Start below the left hand side of the huge roof left of the head wall. Follow the crack up a right facing corner up to the base of the huge roof.
Pitch 2 (80 Feet): Traverse the arch at the base of the roof 50 feet right, then follow the right facing corner up another 30 feet to the large tree.
This route is one of the more obvious king lines when traversing the base of the cliff. At the top of the first pitch, we found a solitary rusty iron piton marking the only evidence of any history of technical climbing on the ledges. After talking to a middle aged local who had lived in the area his whole life and used to hang out around the ledges as a kid, he said that he has never known of any climbing activity on the ledges marking our suspicion that the pin could be a landmark of the 30's or 40's. Having not discovered any other signs of climbing activity, we are unable to tell if the nailer of the pin traversed the arch right as we did, walked the walkway left to access the upper left part of the wall, or merely bailed. This historical landmark adds a nice flavor and mystery to the Great Ledges as well as to the history of traditional climbing in New England.
Pitch 2 (80 Feet): Traverse the arch at the base of the roof 50 feet right, then follow the right facing corner up another 30 feet to the large tree.
This route is one of the more obvious king lines when traversing the base of the cliff. At the top of the first pitch, we found a solitary rusty iron piton marking the only evidence of any history of technical climbing on the ledges. After talking to a middle aged local who had lived in the area his whole life and used to hang out around the ledges as a kid, he said that he has never known of any climbing activity on the ledges marking our suspicion that the pin could be a landmark of the 30's or 40's. Having not discovered any other signs of climbing activity, we are unable to tell if the nailer of the pin traversed the arch right as we did, walked the walkway left to access the upper left part of the wall, or merely bailed. This historical landmark adds a nice flavor and mystery to the Great Ledges as well as to the history of traditional climbing in New England.
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