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No Winds (aka Toto) T 

No Winds (aka Toto) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rondo Powell, Richard Tucker, Feb. 1988
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Let's say you've climbed Dorothy Does The Wizard, and realize you are only a 1-minute walk from this route. Your partner is the victim of a slow dial up connection, and lacks your sources. He has also ignored your pitiful cries of "Watch Me!", and "Up Rope!" all day. Now is the time for your revenge.

The crux of the route is right off the ground, and before you clip the first bolt. If you were leading this, I'd suggest doing yourself a favor; do the moves and then jump off. The first bolt is an OK quarter incher, continue past average rock to the next bolt. This is another winner bolt, combined with a Leeper hanger. Don't try to bend/break it by hand; it's all you got. Past this lovely is some actual slab climbing ( maybe 5.9 ). After about 20' you reach the next bolt, thankfully the most solid looking of the lot. It's not actually on the route per se, it's the belay. Unless some booty-obsessed fiend has been up there, there is a biner on this "anchor". At this point, decline to follow the route, instead generously volunteer to lower your compatriot so he can clean it. Your revenge is complete!

Protection 

A horrifying but small array of bad bolts and hangers.


Comments on No Winds (aka Toto) Add Comment
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By nnn
Jan 31, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Yea This Little Gem is mine(Rondo Powell)and Richard(Chongo
Brother)Tucker

The WIND was blowing like a hurricane on the FA
as soon as I topped out the WIND stopped blowing
hence the Right NAME "NO WINDS" and now the
bolts and hangers are OLD DONE in the 80's listen
IT's called TRADE CLIMBING not a SPORT ROUTE
And NOT for the faint of heart or weak of mind


PS, Bolts and hangers were fine as wine when we
topped out
By Murf
Jan 31, 2012

Rondo - Thanks for commenting. I've corrected the route name and the spleling of your name. It sounds like you had an unique FA experience on this one. You're right on the money, this one is a trad route. Unfortunately it hasn't aged well, and the bolts and hangers were in pretty poor shape 6 years ago. I can't imagine that they have been replaced either. I hope you take the time to either add some of your other routes or comment on the ones that have already been added. It's first hand stories like this one that really give MP value.