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No Winds (aka Toto)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Rondo Powell, Richard Tucker, Feb. 1988 |
| Page Views: | 627 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Let's say you've climbed Dorothy Does The Wizard, and realize you are only a 1-minute walk from this route. Your partner is the victim of a slow dial up connection, and lacks your sources. He has also ignored your pitiful cries of "Watch Me!", and "Up Rope!" all day. Now is the time for your revenge.
The crux of the route is right off the ground, and before you clip the first bolt. If you were leading this, I'd suggest doing yourself a favor; do the moves and then jump off. The first bolt is an OK quarter incher, continue past average rock to the next bolt. This is another winner bolt, combined with a Leeper hanger. Don't try to bend/break it by hand; it's all you got. Past this lovely is some actual slab climbing ( maybe 5.9 ). After about 20' you reach the next bolt, thankfully the most solid looking of the lot. It's not actually on the route per se, it's the belay. Unless some booty-obsessed fiend has been up there, there is a biner on this "anchor". At this point, decline to follow the route, instead generously volunteer to lower your compatriot so he can clean it. Your revenge is complete!
The crux of the route is right off the ground, and before you clip the first bolt. If you were leading this, I'd suggest doing yourself a favor; do the moves and then jump off. The first bolt is an OK quarter incher, continue past average rock to the next bolt. This is another winner bolt, combined with a Leeper hanger. Don't try to bend/break it by hand; it's all you got. Past this lovely is some actual slab climbing ( maybe 5.9 ). After about 20' you reach the next bolt, thankfully the most solid looking of the lot. It's not actually on the route per se, it's the belay. Unless some booty-obsessed fiend has been up there, there is a biner on this "anchor". At this point, decline to follow the route, instead generously volunteer to lower your compatriot so he can clean it. Your revenge is complete!
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