No Whippin Boys 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Nate Postma, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: A really fun finger crack!
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Description Follow the finger crack up and to the right. I tended to lay the crack back more than jam, but either works well. Place nuts and cams as you go or TR after leading Prairie Fire. The rock is relatively solid by Red Wing standards.
Location This route starts to the immediate right of the bolted crack Living Postmortems. Look for a finger crack with a nearby bolt (1st bolt on Living Postmortems).
Protection Nuts and small cams, 1 optional bolt down low (Living Postmortems), and 1 up high (Prairie Fire). Shares anchors with Prairie Fire, please use your own hardware for top roping.
| Comments on No Whippin Boys |
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By Evan Johnson
From: Prior Lake, MN
6 days ago
CONDITION REPORT | There's a tree hanging directly on this route right now. Possibly from the last snowfall? I tried to dislodge it without luck. I''ll be back with a saw soon to clear it out unless someone else beats me to it! |
By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
Jul 10, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| Fun climb. Move quick. |
By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| Great finger locks on this thing. Gobbles pro, bring doubles of BD green and purple and singles of other small BD cams. The larger three master cams worked great on this as well. |
By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 11, 2010
| This was one of my first 10a trad leads. Perhaps 2003?
I made it clean to the anchor on what I thought was probably good gear. When I clipped the anchor and sat back, I did not have a multi-directional first piece, and my partner was pretty far back. Every piece of gear popped out of the crack, and spun around the rope to rest on top of my belayer's ATC. I remember thinking, "Oh, that explains that recommendation..." |
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 6, 2011
| Bomber finger locks! It felt like the feet were VERY slick, but it's been a while since I've climbed at red wing :)
I second the doubles on BD .75 (green) I would have liked three, although a nut worked just fine...
Watch out for the bat who lives about 2/3 way up... I almost whipped because of him! |
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