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 ADVANCED
Ed and Terry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S,TR 
Call it a Knight S,TR 
Captured For Rapture T 
Dipthong T 
DJW Memorial T 
Edge of Knight T 
Edge of the World T 
Edge-n-Scary T 
First Kiss T,TR 
Flakes T,TR 
Full Skuck T 
Hotwired T 
I'm Not Lichen This S 
I.D. Claire S 
Lucky Streak T 
Main Crack T 
Neosymian Thugs S 
No Way In Hell T,TR 
North Chimney T 
North Crack T 
Real McCoy T,TR 
Roaches on a Face T 
Vote for Your Mom S 
Y Crack, The T 

No Way In Hell 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,029
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: 20 No Way In Hell 5.8

Description 

A fun trad route on a fun wall. No Way in Hell climbs a flake system up to and around the right side of the center roof on Ed and Terry. It then goes to the slot up and right of the roof, and finally climbs up a small, broken crack system to the anchors.

The start and end bits are easier than the rest, but the whole route has positive edges and good feet. There didn't seem to be a real crux; after the start the climbing was similar until right before the end.

Location 

This route starts to the right of the Main Crack up an obvious serrated flake system that is located under the right side of the center roof.

Protection 

Small to medium nuts and a small cam or 3 (I placed a #.75 C4, a #2 C3, and a #0 C3 (that wasn't really needed). Mostly good placements but you have to look for them. There is also one bolt above and to the left of the slot. Chain anchors.


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Lee Jensen on No Way in Hell.
Lee Jensen on No Way in Hell.

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By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

This route was an enormously fun lead. A few runout sections kept my attention and overall the climbing was a nice balance of "moderate" and "tricky." Some of the gear I placed wasn't the best, but if you can lead 10- and higher on gear this route shouldn't be too much of a problem. If you're expecting a cruiser 5.8 you're in for a treat!

I'd say singles from your smallest cam up to a #2, with a set of nuts and plenty of runners.