Login with Facebook
Tyrolean Tower
Select Route:
"The Gap" T,TR 
Last Crack T,TR 
Lone Pine Diagonal  T,TR 
No Way Down T 
No Way Down Direct AKA "Tyrolean Tower"  T,TR 

No Way Down 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Apr 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Follow the crack and traverse right to the north p...


Wow. Best way to the top of the tower. Easy to the north platform but from there unprotected climbing up the face, slightly left, and to the top. Unnamed route #3 in Sven's guidebook.


Start at the low point of the tower and follow the crack to the overhang. Traverse under the overhang to the north platform.

To get down lower your partner to the north platform and using them as an anchor rap off the opposite side. There's a piton with quick link on it to keep the rope from sliding off.


Trad. Only a pink and white tri-cam allow you to protect the moves off the north platform. They won't keep you from hitting the platform but they will keep you from falling all the way off. Small wires are needed for a top anchor.

Photos of No Way Down Slideshow Add Photo
Good view of the start.
BETA PHOTO: Good view of the start.

Comments on No Way Down Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Apr 9, 2011

A direct finish is listed as "Tyrolean Tower" in Sven's guidebook at 5.10d. As far as I can tell go straight up through the over-hang.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!