No Way Down
BETA PHOTO: Follow the crack and traverse right to the north p...
Wow. Best way to the top of the tower. Easy to the north platform but from there unprotected climbing up the face, slightly left, and to the top. Unnamed route #3 in Sven's guidebook.
Start at the low point of the tower and follow the crack to the overhang. Traverse under the overhang to the north platform.
To get down lower your partner to the north platform and using them as an anchor rap off the opposite side. There's a piton with quick link on it to keep the rope from sliding off.
Trad. Only a pink and white tri-cam allow you to protect the moves off the north platform. They won't keep you from hitting the platform but they will keep you from falling all the way off. Small wires are needed for a top anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Good view of the start.
Apr 9, 2011
A direct finish is listed as "Tyrolean Tower" in Sven's guidebook at 5.10d. As far as I can tell go straight up through the over-hang.