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No Vacancy (submitted as No Math Required)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.4 from 45
votes
Routes in Free Form Wall
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Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cougar V3 6A |
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Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guilty By Association S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maximum Security S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Vacancy (submitted as No Math Required) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sharp, The Bad, and The Thugly, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swinging Chimps S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Robertson and Romano. Jim D'Napoli, 1990? |
| Page Views: | 2,020 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | dancesatmoonrise on Jul 19, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route is just left of Partners in Crime on the Freeform Wall in Sand Gulch. It is just right of a shallow dihedral/crack.
The route is identified by six glue-in bolts, with washers behind the hangers. The hangers, Kong-Bonati, have "Italy" stamped on the face. A seventh bolt was apparently added later, at the bottom, by an unknown party and has a home-made hanger. The anchors are 1/2 x 4" sleeve bolts with Metolius hangers and quicklinks/chain.
History - the FA party felt the line was a bit squeezed by standards of the day, so they called it "No Vacancy." Glue-ins are messy, so a rag was used to keep things clean. A female climber came by, most curious about the route construction and especially the old pair of underwear used to tidy things up and dubbed the new route, "Tighty Whities."
The route is identified by six glue-in bolts, with washers behind the hangers. The hangers, Kong-Bonati, have "Italy" stamped on the face. A seventh bolt was apparently added later, at the bottom, by an unknown party and has a home-made hanger. The anchors are 1/2 x 4" sleeve bolts with Metolius hangers and quicklinks/chain.
History - the FA party felt the line was a bit squeezed by standards of the day, so they called it "No Vacancy." Glue-ins are messy, so a rag was used to keep things clean. A female climber came by, most curious about the route construction and especially the old pair of underwear used to tidy things up and dubbed the new route, "Tighty Whities."
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