No Vacancy  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Jim DiNapoli, 1998 Submitted By:  dancesatmoonrise on Jul 19, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Making the crux clip.

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Description 

This route is just left of Partners in Crime, on the Freeform Wall in Sand Gulch. It is just right of a shallow dihedral/crack.

The route is identified by six glue-in bolts, with washers behind the hangers. The hangers, Kong-Bonati, have "Italy" stamped on the face. A seventh bolt was apparently added later, at the bottom, by an unknown party, and has a home-made hanger. The anchors are 1/2x4 sleeve bolts with metolius hangers and quicklinks/chain.

History - The FA party felt the line was a bit squeezed by standards of the day, so they called it "No Vacancy." Glue-ins are messy, so a rag was used to keep things clean. A female climber came by, most curious about the route construction, and especially the old pair of underwear used to tidy things up, and dubbed the new route, "Tighty Whities."

Protection 

7 bolts to the anchor - six original, on standard 3/8" hangers; one added later by unknown party, on a home-made hanger.

Photos of No Vacancy Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The route starts by ascending the small buttress a...	Climbing graffiti identifies the start. : /	BETA PHOTO: Bolts 2-7 look like this.
Topping out on the small buttress to start.	Kat studies the moves to bolt 3.	Three clips into the onsight. Bolt 5 as at top ri...
Reverence to Mr. Van Horn can be seen at the base ...	Entering the business district.