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The Red Wall
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No Turning Back 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: The Head Crew
Page Views: 903
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001

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Description 

Off the ledge and the second route to the right of the Blonde Ambition, No Turning Back (NTB) is marked by a series of small right-facing corners that are mastered by liebacks and tricky feet that start right off the deck. The corners look deceptively easy, but don't be fooled. This route starts to slap immediately and remains relentlessly continuous right to the end. The only rest crops up after 40-45 feet of powerful pulling, and it's a lousy rest at that. Above the small horizontal band at 50 feet, the climbing eases back to moderate 5.11 on small, sometimes incut edges.

Tod Anderson copped the FFA after a week of training with 16 oz curls and some serious tanning time.


Protection 

QDs only. At close to 90 feet, this route need about 15 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By heppnerd
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Needs some more cleaning I pulled off a football sized rock at the top with zero effort.I also felt like the hollow flakes were going to peel off and hit my belayer.Good movement but so-so rock.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Agree with heppnerd about the rock on this thing. Really good climbing, but wow, this thing should have had a lot more rock cleaned when it went up. It was obvious where the rock that heppnerd pulled off came from (big new rock scar up high), and unfortunately, there is a huge flake just above that is primed to go as well. When that thing comes off, it will be a small miracle if it doesn't either damage your rope on the way down or maim your belayer. Watch what you pull on.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 9, 2013

Hey J, I want to do that one pretty bad but might not get around to it this season. Hope you did some extra cleaning for me!

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Hey slim, I did not have a pry bar nor permission from the FA to clean things up, so I didn't touch anything. The biggest and most dangerous problem is up on the final headwall where there is a pretty big flake-like feature that is flexing a lot (it is immediately above where hepnerd pulled off a toaster oven). Anyway, if you have to use it, grab it at the bottom to avoid levering on it and try not to yard I guess. Enjoy the route, it's good and definitely solid at the grade.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I can only recall one questionable flake, but that was back in the '90s when the route went in so things may have changed or perhaps people are climbing a slightly different line than I did. I would say to reef away on anything that is now loose and maybe post any changes to the grade.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Will do, thanks for the feedback, Tod.