No Turning Back  5.12c

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Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12c/d [details] FA:  The Head Crew Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Off the ledge and the second route to the right of the Blonde Ambition. No Turning Back (NTB) is marked by a series of small right-facing corners that are mastered by lie-backs and tricky feet that start right off the deck. The corners look deceptively easy, but don't be fooled. This route starts to slap immediately and remains relentlessly continuous right to the end. The only rest crops up after 40-45 ft of powerful pulling, and it's a lousy rest at that. Above the small horizontal band at 50 ft, the climbing eases back to moderate 5.11 on small, sometimes incut edges. Tod Anderson copped the FFA after a week of training with 16 oz curls and some serious tanning time.

Protection 

QD only. At close to 90 ft, this route need about 15 QD and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.