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Castle Rock
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Cat Burglar 
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Damnation Crack 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) 
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Devil's Fright 
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MF Overhang 
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The 
Old Gray Mare 
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South Face, Jello Tower 
Winter Solstice 

No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Lepeska
Season: Year 'round.
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: Jplotz on Mar 20, 2013
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge.
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge (NSTFL) is an athletic route up the glass smooth north side of Jello Tower on Upper Castle Rock. The climbing is fairly sustained, with the crux coming about halfway up, surmounting a bulge on crimpy holds and slick, nearly non-existent feet. The protection is decent, and I guess it could be argued that with today's versatile gear, it may not warrant an "R" rating. But I'll leave that up to the hardcores who would know better.
Once through the crux, continue on with thin face climbing and insecure jams to the final fun-as-hell overhanging finish!
Awesome route that took me many top rope laps to figure out.


North facing wall of Jello Tower is where this pitch is located, just to the right of Damnation Crack.


Gear from .4 to 2.5". The hand sized piece can go under the final roof, but not entire necessary. A 2" camalot is mandatory before pulling the crux bulge, as is a .75 camalot after the crux but before the thin face climbing. I found placing a few brass offsets before the face climbing put my mind at ease. I also used a couple offset cams on the initial face leading up to the crux.

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