No Such Thing as a Free Lunge
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge.
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge (NSTFL) is an athletic route up the glass smooth north side of Jello Tower on Upper Castle Rock. The climbing is fairly sustained, with the crux coming about halfway up, surmounting a bulge on crimpy holds and slick, nearly non-existent feet. The protection is decent, and I guess it could be argued that with today's versatile gear, it may not warrant an "R" rating. But I'll leave that up to the hardcores who would know better.
Once through the crux, continue on with thin face climbing and insecure jams to the final fun-as-hell overhanging finish!
Awesome route that took me many top rope laps to figure out.
North facing wall of Jello Tower is where this pitch is located, just to the right of Damnation Crack.
Gear from .4 to 2.5". The hand sized piece can go under the final roof, but not entire necessary. A 2" camalot is mandatory before pulling the crux bulge, as is a .75 camalot after the crux but before the thin face climbing. I found placing a few brass offsets before the face climbing put my mind at ease. I also used a couple offset cams on the initial face leading up to the crux.
Having fun above the crux of no such thing.
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
For those who dream to dabble with the Lunge, fear not as after initially run out face, the gear becomes plentiful and solid. Having some small offset cams will help early on as the author noted. I found lots of thin, but good gear from the crux on up to where the route rejoins MF Direct. Probably worth a TR lap or two to figure out the powerful crux and where the good gear is.