BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Roof (9), No Stranger to the Fist (10), and...
This route is located on the east face of the Minor Mass of the Doorway Rocks, to the left (south) of the large oak tree. The route is about 80 feet long. To climb the route start out by making your way up to the "Saddle" using easy ledges. Once on the saddle climb the face directly below the roof using small, balancey face holds. At the top of the face surmount the four-foot roof and continue up to the top with easy moves.
This is a bump for old "Prunes" Bechler.We will not forget thee. Rest in peace ifna ya can.What's it like up there? Do it fer Prunes and do it fer yer club.Pull down cut loose throw up. Peace and f-nes Steve S. brother of fuk-nes
Has anybody tried to climb or actually climbed "No Stranger To The Fist"? With Rich having left this world too soon (he is and will always be missed... R.I.P Rich Bechler) it has been hard to get a definitive answer as to the actual section of rock that this route takes. Attached is a jpeg borrowed from Nick R. showing in green what the guidebook sort of indicates as the route and what MP.com references... Could it be that the route takes the line in RED?
Accepted route line in Green? Possible route line in Red?
I think it's green, doesn't TAB's description match the book? However, I don't think TAB was ever strong enough to climb this based on what I've read on here. TAB entered many routes all at once when this was climbdevilslake.com too, so if you have to trust one intrepretation go with Sven's. I know I futz'd around on this but I can't recall anything besides "very hard".
I am asking because I have tried both these lines now via TR and the more natural line appears to be the left hand red line in the photo. I have not been able to climb either route thus far but want to keep trying to no fall climb them. The left hand route is equally stout as the right hand but offers just a few more options hold wise.. it's all very small and the moves very technical.... I think there is a new route that could be entered into the data base along the left hand red line if the green line is indeed the line Rich climbed. I have figured out some variations (along with a few other friends) to the left red line that climb in from either the right (Pigeon Roof) or left (FaJ) avoiding the first blank section but the exit move into the wide hanging crack at the top is still in the 5.11 range I am thinking. Also I figured out and climbed without falls a neat variation climbing in from left at the dark overlap (from FaJ corner) up a few moves in the steep groove then back left to avoid the stiff 5.11 and finally up into that hanging crack at the top which clocks in at 5.10amaybe? There is a fixed pin on the right at the start of the hanging wide crack at the top that looks like it has taken some falls as it is in a downward angle position. All very interesting. This hanging crack is the finish the the Pigeon Roof variation left mentioned in the guide indicated to be 5.8 (unlikely I am thinking but possible... I haven't tried that variant yet).