By doze From: Denver, CO Apr 7, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a R
I lead this route after continuous rehearsal in the fall of 2010.
The route is actually quite leader-friendly despite its X rating in Williams guidebook. You don't have to place pro on either retribution or nosedive. Double ropes help.
Warning, gear and route beta below:
Green c3 - horizontal before the roof (bomber) Red c3 + blue ballnut - below the roof (Ok, if the rock is not wet) Purple c3 - lip of the roof (psychological)
After you pull the roof, there are a few 5.9 moves with a ground fall potential. Green c3 - sloping pocket on the left in horizontal between two roofs (Another psychological piece, I would skip it if leading on a single rope) Red c3 - smiling horizontal crack to the right, pretty close to Nosedive, but still on the main face (you can put 2-3 cams of the same size, very solid place) .3 c4 + .5 linkcam (.4 c4 or yellow/green alien offset should fit too) - in the rest horizontal before the final crux, also bomber placement.
One thing to keep in mind placing pro under the roof: Gunks roofs form at fault lines where the rock is not so solid and gets very fragile after continuous rain. Even though it may look dry on the outside, it is little more than pebbles and sand glued with mud inside - an interesting discovery that cost my friend a broken rib. I would let it dry for a week after good rainstorm.