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Tweener Wall
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G-1 S 
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No Slack at GAC S 

No Slack at GAC 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,309
Submitted By: Almonzo on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: Myself on No Slack at GAC (exciting 5.7) at the Ha...

Description 

This route follows the arete on the second fin-like outcropping past the main bulk of the Left Hand Wall. Getting there is much less than half the fun. Harder than it looks, this climb is exciting and committing. The difficulty is fairly consistent and involves several airy and exposed moves. Note: Despite its 5.7 rating, this climb is significantly more difficult than Limbomaniac, Unemployment Line, and Resume Builder down below. Additionally, blowing the 4th clip could lead to a spectacular crevice plunge.

Protection 

6 bolts with chains up top.


Photos of No Slack at GAC Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff, climbing like it's going out of style.
Jeff, climbing like it's going out of style.

Comments on No Slack at GAC Add Comment
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By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Few fun moves, sort of chossy, and I thought the bolts were in bad spots, but I give it a star for sheer excitement. Great exposure on the overhanging arete and nice photo ops from up in the gully (you'll look like your 500 feet in the air and your mom will freak out). Crux is up high. Possibly the most grunting I've ever done on a 5.7.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 5, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Clipping is more scary for shorter folks. I disagree with the R-rating, this climb is not that dangerous.

In my opinion, none of the routes in this mini-canyon are worth your time.
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Jan 19, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R

The bolts off the start of this climb are in bad places IMO. The first bolt wont stop any kind of fall and the second is pretty high above it. Not that great and harder then 5.7.
By David K
Feb 17, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Climbed this on Saturday. Harder than a 5.7 imo. Also, 3rd bolt is loose.
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Mar 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Poor bolting and suspect rock. Probably doesn't deserve a full R rating, but since this a climb that a lot of beginners get on it is worth letting them know that blowing a clip would really suck.
By KristinaB
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Leading this gets your blood pumping a bit - you need to commit to the the 'crux' bulge move after the 4th bolt to successfully complete it. A fall here would not be bad like a fall would be elsewhere. FUN and EXPOSED = )