No Slack at GAC
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BETA PHOTO: Myself on No Slack at GAC (exciting 5.7) at the Ha...
This route follows the arete on the second fin-like outcropping past the main bulk of the Left Hand Wall. Getting there is much less than half the fun. Harder than it looks, this climb is exciting and committing. The difficulty is fairly consistent and involves several airy and exposed moves. Note: Despite its 5.7 rating, this climb is significantly more difficult than Limbomaniac, Unemployment Line, and Resume Builder down below. Additionally, blowing the 4th clip could lead to a spectacular crevice plunge.
6 bolts with chains up top.
Jeff, climbing like it's going out of style.
|Comments on No Slack at GAC
|By Scott Tucker|
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2006
rating: 5.7 R
Few fun moves, sort of chossy, and I thought the bolts were in bad spots, but I give it a star for sheer excitement. Great exposure on the overhanging arete and nice photo ops from up in the gully (you'll look like your 500 feet in the air and your mom will freak out). Crux is up high. Possibly the most grunting I've ever done on a 5.7.
Feb 5, 2007
Clipping is more scary for shorter folks. I disagree with the R-rating, this climb is not that dangerous.
In my opinion, none of the routes in this mini-canyon are worth your time.
|By Mike Dudley|
Jan 19, 2009
rating: 5.8- R
The bolts off the start of this climb are in bad places IMO. The first bolt wont stop any kind of fall and the second is pretty high above it. Not that great and harder then 5.7.
|By David K|
Feb 17, 2009
rating: 5.8 R
Climbed this on Saturday. Harder than a 5.7 imo. Also, 3rd bolt is loose.
|By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich|
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Mar 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 R
Poor bolting and suspect rock. Probably doesn't deserve a full R rating, but since this a climb that a lot of beginners get on it is worth letting them know that blowing a clip would really suck.
From: Tucson, Arizona
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.8 PG13
I also thought his was harder than 5.7. Not that any of the individual moves per say are that hard but it is very sustained, overhanging in several places, the bolts are in bad places, there is ground/ledge fall potential in several places, lots of exposure ect... The crux overhanging bulge is pretty intense too as you cant see your feet to place them so you just have to paw with your feet and you cant see over the bulge to know if the line you chose will go. Right of that bolt there are big jugs to pull the bulge on. We put a BOMBER #1-Blue Metolius TCU (but a powercam would fit too, in fact since the crack tapers a 0,00 TCU/powercam or a small nut should work too) in about 4-5 feet above the 1st bolt from a good stance, this will prevent a ground fall if you fall before the 2ed bolt. This route would be much improved with 2-3 more bolts, which I would be happy to add if both the FA and community want/agree to them, I do think 5.7 "Sport" climbs should be fairly well protected, nothing wrong with run-outs if they just lead to longer clean falls but that is not the case here. Other than that a FUN climb!
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.7+ PG13
Leading this gets your blood pumping a bit - you need to commit to the the 'crux' bulge move after the 4th bolt to successfully complete it. A fall here would not be bad like a fall would be elsewhere. FUN and EXPOSED = )