No Self Control 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Warren Musselman and John Anderson, Oct 1981 |
| Submitted By: | Justin Johnsen on Aug 16, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: No Self Control goes straight up this corner.
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Description Follows a large corner, sometimes sharing it with a little trickling water or toxic foliage. Halfway up is a ledge with a tree, and it tops out through a notch, slightly to the right in a small overhang.
Location Far right/east side of Chain Reaction Buttress, starting from the belay trail.
Protection Standard rack. "Gear is easy and plentiful. Hexes work pretty well if you don't have many cams, but a strange #3 camalot makes exiting the roof feel better." [-Larry S]
No anchor/rap bolts over this route, though the bolts from neighboring routes can be borrowed if nobody else is on the east side of Chain Reaction Buttress.
BETA PHOTO: Anna near the top of No Self Control.
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BETA PHOTO: General shot of NSC's corner
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| Comments on No Self Control |
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By Larry S
Nov 23, 2010
| My very first lead. Gear is easy and plentiful. Hexes work pretty well if you don't have many cams, but a strange #3 camalot makes exiting the roof feel better. |
By PaulOnTheWall
From: Whitehall, PA
Apr 18, 2012
| This is a nice little warm up route for Phone Booth or Chain Reaction. Lots of room for variation. After you get about half way up, try the arete on the left or the south facing face on the right for a little more difficulty. Fun and easy for beginners. If you top rope this on a busy day, the belay area is very narrow so expect people to be passing through. |
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