No Return  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Ed Pearsall, Tom Seibert - 1979 Submitted By:  DaveB on Jun 15, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Thankfully past the bulge and into the beautiful d...

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Description 

Fingers-Hands-Fists...be ready for it all! Gain crack from ledge at the right, and commence upward using jams and face holds. Grunt and struggle through widening crack and bulge (crux) to spacious ledge and rest (optional belay here). Continue up beautiful dihedral/finger crack to ledge and scramble right to anchors. Belay from here. Note: Careful NOT to pass anchor ledge. Also, you may want to protect second (place gear/runner at top of dihedral) before traversing right to avoid possible pendulum.

Location 

Where the approach trail meets the wall, you will see a wide crack in black rock. This is No Return. Access crack from ledge to the right.

Protection 

Small-med-large. Runner(s). Anchors to the right. 60m rope for rap.