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BETA PHOTO: Thankfully past the bulge and into the beautiful d...
Fingers-Hands-Fists...be ready for it all! Gain crack from ledge at the right, and commence upward using jams and face holds. Grunt and struggle through widening crack and bulge (crux) to spacious ledge and rest (optional belay here). Continue up beautiful dihedral/finger crack to ledge and scramble right to anchors. Belay from here. Note: Careful NOT to pass anchor ledge. Also, you may want to protect second (place gear/runner at top of dihedral) before traversing right to avoid possible pendulum.
Where the approach trail meets the wall, you will see a wide crack in black rock. This is No Return. Access crack from ledge to the right.
Small-med-large. Runner(s). Anchors to the right. 60m rope for rap.
|By Sam Stephens|
Mar 8, 2010
Anchors were at the top of the dihedral.
Aug 6, 2010
Can a second person please confirm the "new" anchors? (Installed since the route was originally submitted?) Thanks.
|By Cody Ison|
May 14, 2013
Anchors ARE up at the end of the dihedral, and are postitioned at a good stance ledge.