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 ADVANCED
Lower Major Mass
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Archeopteryx T,TR 
Archway Cookie T,TR 
Blue Slab T,TR 
Cat Fight T,TR 
Cat Walk T,TR 
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 
Congestion Chimney T,TR 
Cookie Cutter T,TR 
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 
Earnings Summary T,TR 
Goodbye Youth T 
Innocence T,TR 
Kenosis T,TR 
King's Corner T,TR 
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 
Loco Head T,TR 
Mental Block TR 
Microwave Dinner T,TR 
Mindless Dribble TR 
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 
Puffs Plus T,TR 
Red Slab T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 
Sure Shot TR 
TM Overhang T,TR 
West Michigan T,TR 
Wicker Man T,TR 

No Rest For the Wicked 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Sep 15, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: No Rest For the Wicked

Description 

No Rest For the Wicked is located above the Seventh Buttress near the west end of the Major Mass of the Doorway Rocks. To access it, either climb one of the easy routes of the Seventh Buttress or go around the west side of the Seventh Buttress and scramble up 4th class terrain to the base of No Rest For the Wicked.

The route ascends a vertical face on small fingertip ledges that are part of a right-leaning diagonal crack. There is a good sized tree just to the right of the base of the climb.

Protection 

Beak hooks (no cracks for stoppers, but you might be able to hang something from a tiny ledge.


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By Tradoholic
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Contrary to what's said above I got a few good pieces in this, micro cams and C3's.