Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Deville 3
Select Route:
Deville 3 T 
Kornerstone Edge T 
No Respite T 
Parallel Universe T 
Xenomorph T 

No Respite 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Larry Dalke, 1960s
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Dec 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The first two pitches of this route get zero stars, but the final pitch gets three. That would average out to one star, but it's best to think of it as an alternative third pitch to Xenomorph (step left just below the second belay of that route), which would make it a three star route, so I averaged it out as two!

However, it certainly isn't the 5.9 as rated in the Rossiter, Gillett, and Kimball guides. This is one "Dalke 5.9" that never did get upgraded! Unfortunately for me, when I climbed the route, 5.9 was my absolute limit, and the crux had its way with me (and for a considerable amount of time, too!). It's slightly and continuously overhanging and the holds and jams are not very positive. Solid 5.10 or harder, just like all of the routes in Eldo that Dalke rated 5.9, but are now 5.10c.

P1 begins on the narrow North face of the Deville Three Pinnacle. Ascend moderate, uninteresting terrain for 100 or so feet to a belay ledge.

P2 consists of super-scary 5.8 up a very steep RF corner (the right of two), with sketchy pro and some friable rock. Belay on a large ledge with a cairn, right of the dark cleft that separates the pinnacle from the rest of the cliff.

P3 climbs the crack (w/fixed angle) above the ledge (3", then fingers and thin hands). Good protection (I tested much of it), strenuous and continuous climbing on excellent rock. Easier but loose ground above leads to the summit of the pinnacle.

Protection 

Carry a standard rack to 3".


Comments on No Respite Add Comment
Show which comments
By S. Kimball
Jul 13, 2003

Definition of a Dalke 5.9: "No Respite" 5.10b/c. An overhanging, Eldo, jugcrack, not in Eldo...
By S. Kimball
Feb 6, 2004

I now own the fixed angle, taking bids pre EBay.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 7, 2004

Scott, maybe you'd consider closing the bidding for someone like me who has a soft spot in his heart for that angle.

Bid: no money, but I agree to stop referring to you as "that damn sandbagger Kimball" when speaking of Romulan Territory ;-)