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Bingo Baby
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Cosmic Imperative 
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Gun in the Mouth Blues 
If I only Had a Brain 
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No Remorse 
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No Remorse 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 11, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Walt on No Remorse.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An enjoyable jaunt up less-than-vertical limestone, using some big edges and jugs, a few small pockets, and chert-edged crimps here and there.

The start is mildly intimidating, even though there is a huge jug on which to start because the move to get to and clip the second bolt is a stretch and you're close to the ground. After standing up on the big, starting jug, continue up through some fun movement using sidepulls and balance. Near the middle of the route you'll wonder where the bigger holds went; fortunately, chert comes to the rescue.

The top is a bit of fun; going far left and then cutting back to the chains is probably easier than going straight up, but not as rewarding.


Location 

The left route on the face which is in front of the fixed-rope gully which is at the right side of Bingo Baby wall. Starts from a ledge on top of some lower-angled rock.


Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors.



Photos of No Remorse Slideshow Add Photo
left carabiner wear on the anchors of No Remorse. Hard to see in the pic, but the worn edges are getting quite sharp.
BETA PHOTO: left carabiner wear on the anchors of No Remorse. ...
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By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 30, 2012

CONDITION REPORT 

The 'biner's on the anchor chains have deep grooves worn in them from rope friction; the edges are becoming fairly sharp, avoid using them and place your own draws on the anchor chains instead.

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 30, 2012

This was a fun climb which seemed to change character about halfway up - almost like experiencing two completely different climbs in one! The bottom has large holds and solution pockets with good feet, then about halfway up those good holds quickly disappear, turning into thin chert crimpers, especially on the last 1/3 of the route and below the anchors.