Climb the first two pitches if you are the ~5.8 level. Find a more exciting way to the Holy Moley Ledge to do the third pitch if you are at the ~5.10 level. First pitch is short straightforward trad climbing. Second pitch is low angle frictiony slab climbing. Third pitch is steep and cruxy all the way up.
P1 (5.8, 70 feet): Trad, two bolts, and a few cams, .5-4. You can see bolted anchor from the ground. The only trad climb on the right side that leads to a bolted anchor. Original FA says 5.8, this pitch is probably easier than that.
P2 (5.8, 130 feet): Friction up and right on a bolted slab to the Holey Moley Ledge. Bolted anchor.
P3 (5.10c, 140 feet): Thirteen bolts leads up thin climbing with some lieback moves and a small roof in the middle of the pitch. The pitch wanders slightly to follow weaknesses up the wall. Make sure to have enough draws and an anchor for this long one.
Right side. Look for only climb without a bolt line to a bolted anchor not too far from the ground.
For third pitch, furthest right climb on the Holey Moley Ledge. Just left of the dihedral with the death dagger. Look for a large undercling at the start to find this climb.
A light rack of cams (.5-4 or thereabouts) for the first pitch. 13 draws plus two anchors for the rest. All pitches have bolted anchors. Rap on two ropes or one with more stops along the way.
BETA PHOTO: No Place To Hide and Holey Moley Overview. El Cap...
Paul, taking on one of the many cruxes.
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 24, 2007
P1 lead bolts chopped (12/2007) and P2 first couple of bolts chopped. We climbed to the anchor of P1 and decided not to run it out and continue to the Holey Moley ledge for fear of no rap station. Don't know about the condition of P3.
P1 of Holey Moley appears to be completely missing. Could not see P2.
Pretty bummed since I had been wanting to get on Holey Moley for a while now.
|By T.J. Esposito|
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 2, 2011
Suggested cams for P1- C4's in .5, .4, and/or 3. Guide says P2 is a 10a, which must be wrong since it definitely felt like more of a cruise than P1. Third pitch is devious, sustained from the very start to the very end. Thin clipping stances, thin holds, and baking on a hot day. Slab skills will help on some of it.