No Place To Hide  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 340 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Gary Anderson, Art Messier Season:  Anything but Summer Submitted By:  mschlocker on Apr 24, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Rapping down from Holy Moley Ledge. No Place To H...

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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>> Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates! ACSD Access and Nesting Advisories Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb the first two pitches if you are the ~5.8 level. Find a more exciting way to the Holy Moley Ledge to do the third pitch if you are at the ~5.10 level. First pitch is short straightforward trad climbing. Second pitch is low angle frictiony slab climbing. Third pitch is steep and cruxy all the way up.

P1 (5.8, 70 feet): Trad, two bolts, and a few cams, .5-4. You can see bolted anchor from the ground. The only trad climb on the right side that leads to a bolted anchor. Original FA says 5.8, this pitch is probably easier than that.

P2 (5.8, 130 feet): Friction up and right on a bolted slab to the Holey Moley Ledge. Bolted anchor.

P3 (5.10c, 140 feet): Thirteen bolts leads up thin climbing with some lieback moves and a small roof in the middle of the pitch. The pitch wanders slightly to follow weaknesses up the wall. Make sure to have enough draws and an anchor for this long one.

Location 

Right side. Look for only climb without a bolt line to a bolted anchor not too far from the ground.

For third pitch, furthest right climb on the Holey Moley Ledge. Just left of the dihedral with the death dagger. Look for a large undercling at the start to find this climb.

Protection 

A light rack of cams (.5-4 or thereabouts) for the first pitch. 13 draws plus two anchors for the rest. All pitches have bolted anchors. Rap on two ropes or one with more stops along the way.

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BETA PHOTO: No Place To Hide and Holey Moley Overview. El Cap...