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Emerald City
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No Place Like Home 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: J. Link, J.Baker, 1992
Season: Sunny arete- good when co
Page Views: 2,172
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
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Starting up the steep start to get to that amazing...

Description 

One of the finest sport routes in all of the Red, and for that matter, anywhere. That is the reason for my choice for it to be the first one I went back for upon 'homecoming' in Y2K. The name is a great coincidence.
Climb an easy face past a few bolts and move out left onto a steep arete in the sun. Climb past perhaps 10 bolts to the anchors on smaller holds than are common in the red, using the arete frequently for hands and heals.


Location 

At the far left end of Emerald City, this steep and tall arete beckons- climb it! This is the last bolted route to the left on this crag.


Protection 

Nine bolts, plus the anchors.



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By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
May 6, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

This route is the best 11c I've done! Super exposed, wasn't any chalk on it when I climbed it (making it very tricky), and there was some strong winds to add to the excitement.

Used up EVERY INCH of a 60m rope to lower.

By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Dec 4, 2008

standout route: one for the "best of the Red" lists

By Sam Stephens
May 18, 2010

So good. This route deserves all of the stars it gets. Great exposure, fun moves, and one poorly placed bolt adds to the spice of the route. So, so, so good.

By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Feb 2, 2011

By far my favorite 11c of the Gorge, first bolt is a bit of a stretch but follow through SUPER EXPOSED, very tall route full 60m needed 70m is ideal.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 9, 2011

Gobs of exposure. Loved every second of this thing. Beautiful view from the top. No R rating to this climb.

By Hillbill
From: Indiana
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

This climb is scary, hard.......fun, long, exposed, and on of the best routs I've ever been on!! I'd say the run-out to the first bold is a good 30ft. or so, which was quite scary but rewarding. Probably the best route in the RED.

By Jon Richard
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Amazing route! Great exposure, fun moves and perfect rock.... Felt soft for the grade.... Nothing R rated about it. You can bring gear to protect run-out leading to the first high bolt if you so desire.