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Emerald City
Routes Sorted
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Big Toe Arete 
Black Magic Arete 
Diamond In The Rough S 
Father's Day T 
Fictitious Egg, The 
Flying Monkeys S 
Hollow Threat 
In The Middle 
Let the Wookie Win 
Lolliop Kids S 
Mandarin TR 
My Sexy Cranberry 
No Place Like Home S 
Oz S 
Ruby Slippers S 
Sharp T 
Shelf Life 
Shining, The T 
Watto (SDS) 
Whiteout T 
Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 
Yellow Brick Road S 
Unsorted Routes:

No Place Like Home 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: J. Link, J.Baker, 1992
Season: Sunny arete- good when co
Page Views: 3,154
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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BETA PHOTO: View from the bottom. First bolt is near the x.


One of the finest sport routes in all of the Red, and for that matter, anywhere. That is the reason for my choice for it to be the first one I went back for upon 'homecoming' in Y2K. The name is a great coincidence.
Climb an easy face past a few bolts and move out left onto a steep arete in the sun. Climb past perhaps 10 bolts to the anchors on smaller holds than are common in the red, using the arete frequently for hands and heals.


At the far left end of Emerald City, this steep and tall arete beckons- climb it! This is the last bolted route to the left on this crag.


Nine bolts, plus the anchors.

Photos of No Place Like Home Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up the steep start to get to that amazing...
Starting up the steep start to get to that amazing...
Experiencing the exposer up on the arÍte
Experiencing the exposer up on the arÍte

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By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
May 6, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route is the best 11c I've done! Super exposed, wasn't any chalk on it when I climbed it (making it very tricky), and there was some strong winds to add to the excitement.

Used up EVERY INCH of a 60m rope to lower.
By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Dec 4, 2008

standout route: one for the "best of the Red" lists
By Sam Stephens
May 18, 2010

So good. This route deserves all of the stars it gets. Great exposure, fun moves, and one poorly placed bolt adds to the spice of the route. So, so, so good.
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Feb 2, 2011

By far my favorite 11c of the Gorge, first bolt is a bit of a stretch but follow through SUPER EXPOSED, very tall route full 60m needed 70m is ideal.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 9, 2011

Gobs of exposure. Loved every second of this thing. Beautiful view from the top. No R rating to this climb.
By Hillbill
From: Indianapolis
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This climb is scary, hard.......fun, long, exposed, and on of the best routs I've ever been on!! I'd say the run-out to the first bold is a good 30ft. or so, which was quite scary but rewarding. Probably the best route in the RED.
By Jon Richard
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Amazing route! Great exposure, fun moves and perfect rock.... Felt soft for the grade.... Nothing R rated about it. You can bring gear to protect run-out leading to the first high bolt if you so desire.
By Jess H Whitmore
From: Cedarville Ohio
Jun 2, 2015

I used a 70 meter rope and had about 15ft to spare after lowering
By Ivan LaBianca
1 day ago

Found the actually climbing easier than I expected for the grade. If its at your limit there is potential for some exciting swings but the actual meat of the route is safely bolted. If you aren't comfortable soloing to the first bolt, which is a good 30 feet, bring a large cam or a hex to protect it. Basically you climb easy terrain to a ledge, then climb a few feet on maybe 5.7 mossy rock to reach the first bolt which is place just high enough that you might fall past the ledge all the way to the ground.
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