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No Place for a Gentleman  

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: AOSR on Oct 1, 2010
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Description 

Climb sharp rock at the beginning and make your second clip on a smooth face. You are now 30 feet off the ground and will not see another bolt for 30 feet of 10ish climbing over a roof - do the math. A decent stopper might make this safe. Rest after the roof/clip, two more bolts on thin, steep face moves (crux) brings you to an awesome uncling into a flake to surmount the final roof to the anchors.

Wouldn't be a bad route if it were cleaned a little and safe.


Location 

Climbs just left of "No Place For a Lady"


Protection 

5 bolts to old rings.



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By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Oct 1, 2010

I have a thing for leaver biners, and boy did I earn it on this one....