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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

No Picnic 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Will Crowther and Gardiner Perry (1950s)
Page Views: 2,368
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: No Picnic
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hard for the grade. The original route is different and was graded 5.4. As described, the route avoids some loose rock.

Climb the low-angle slab and corner to blocks, then move right and up to an overhang, passing the hang just left of a thin crack (crux), sometimes dirty from sand after rains, to a stance, then up to the pine tree belay/rap.


Location 

At the top of a rock slope, about 25 feet left of the Gerdie Block and about 60 feet up from the Carriage Road.


Protection 

Guide book says G, but the placing gear is strenuous at the crux (for the grade) and there is some loose rock.



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No Picnic
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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Sep 12, 2008

I've recently (within the past week) done Shit or Go Blind and No Picnic, and there is a cable covered with plastic that is looped around the tree that is on the ledge where the climbs end. The cable has a new Quik-Link attached to it.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 11, 2009

A nice happy climb at the start of the Trapps. After the first 20 feet, the gear is plentiful and solid. Climb up to the roof, pull it and then up the steeper face to the tree. Watch out for the rocking block below the roof.

By Joe Ludlow
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 9, 2010

I could have sworn that this route was at one point rated a 5.3+....

The only 5.3 with a little roof on it ;)

By doligo
Jun 10, 2010

Joe, how about Easy V - it is rated 5.2+ in Todd Swain's book (5.3 in Grey Dick) and has a trickier roof than one of No Picnic

By SethG
May 11, 2011

This was much nicer than I thought it would be. Good little climb.

By kenr
Mar 22, 2012

Nice overhang/steep section, big positive holds all the way thru it. Too bad that section is not longer (like so many nice things around the Uberfall). I did not find any "sandy" holds mentioned in one guidebook.

1 or 2 more single strenuous moves in it, where the feet are not good, or you have to step fairly high which momentarily pushes your butt out from the rock. Barely noticeable if you're strong + confident + move thru it quickly -- but very noticeable if you're not. Those 1 or 2 single moves really do require some strength in arms or fingers -- might seem "unfair" that good technique isn't enough on a 5.5

First 20-25 feet (significantly easier then 5.5) unprotected, above that seemed well-protected all the way with a range of cams in horizontals (normal Gunks stuff). The left-facing corner can be avoided, taking a direct line (unprotected?) up to the overhang, a bit harder and bit more interesting, can play with it after get a rope to the top.

By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga, NY
Mar 28, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Rated 5.4 in Swain, I always felt this was more like a 5.5.

The roof move is a bit awkward (requires more strength than technique) , it can sometimes be a bit dirty. I also don't find the gear great below the roof. Above it both the climbing and gear are a grade or two better, though it is still steep.