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Menses Prow
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No Passion for Fashion 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin McGlaughlin and Kerry Gunter
Page Views: 3,443
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Niccole on No Fashion.

Description 

Another brilliant Shelf Route, this time it is on the right side of Menses Prow. Find the inner route on the left (East-facing) wall of an inside corner. Look for a few shakeouts along the way. Start with big holds and stemming from the corner up left to the first bolt. Move past the overlap to the fun sequential, pumpy moves that don't stop until you reach the anchor.


Protection 

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of No Passion for Fashion Slideshow Add Photo
Fashionable climbing.
Fashionable climbing.
BETA PHOTO
Dave taking a rest before entering another strenous section of climbing.
Dave taking a rest before entering another strenou...
No Passion from Mural Wall.
No Passion from Mural Wall.
Josh on No Passion for Fashion.
Josh on No Passion for Fashion.
Josh again, getting it done.
Josh again, getting it done.
Climbing through the pumpy upper part of the route. March 2011.
Climbing through the pumpy upper part of the route...
Comments on No Passion for Fashion Add Comment
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By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 17, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Wow!
The second half is sustained, I would rate it 5.11b/c.
In my opinion, this is a must do at Menses Prow.
This routes features nice stemming moves for the first half, then when half way up, moving left onto the face, there are some awesome full extension face moves, which gave me a good pump.

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I remember this route being super-pumpy. I had considerably more trouble with this than Slipper Queen on Contest Wall the next day. But, oh what an incredible climb! Definitely a must do - I will come back and get this.

By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Dec 8, 2007

First ascent- Kevin McLaughlin, Kerry Gunter. We were not into lycra- hence the name. This is a nice route.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Awesome route, Kevin. One of my favorites at Shelf so far....

By Patrick Ellinwood
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2011

I did this last April and thought it was one of the best 11s I'd done at Shelf. The first third is easier, slightly funky, and then you get out on the big face and hit the crux sequence. This is very much an endurance climb, once you start into the crux it never really lets up. Each sequence gets a little more straightforward and steeper till the end. I'd give this a full 4 stars.

By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013

Pretty solid route until the anchor. Look for a less than obvious undercling to clip the anchors. Still one of the best routes at the Prow.

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Dec 27, 2013

Super super fun climb. The start is a tad bit awkward, but the stemming makes it very manageable. After that is pretty sustained. I'd have to agree on great movement and rock all the way to the top. Enjoy!