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 ADVANCED
(9) New School Wall
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Dad's Nuts T 
Gophers Gone Wild--Woo S 
No Nuts S 
Numb Nuts S 
Small Nuts T,S 

No Nuts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08
Page Views: 1,071
Submitted By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Climb right of tree, on porous rock, to large ledge. Pull through large dihedral, then traverse right onto face. Romp to top.

Location 

Starts right of mossy buttress, 20ft up & right from 'Small Nuts'.

Protection 

Bolts


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By Ebb
From: Vancouver, WA
May 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Caution! Watch your rope length. The first time we climbed this, what we thought was a 60m rope didn't quite make it all the way to the ground when lowering on belay (but it was only a matter of a few feet). The belayer needed to take a couple steps up the start of the route to get the climber to the ground. More recently however, (climbing with a brand new 60m rope) we had at least 10 - 15 feet of rope left with both of us on the ground.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'm not sure what time of year this is likely to be an issue, but be aware that there's a small trickle of water that runs right over the crux holds and slimes up the lichen/moss that's on them. This can make for a pretty heady lead, since you have to traverse right through these moves and will swing a bit if you slip off.

If memory serves you can see this sludge from the ground so I'd look for it before heading up.