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 ADVANCED
Lower Mother's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alex's Tower T 
Another Unnamed Route T 
Cow-a-Bunga T 
Cymbeline T 
Fine Line, A T 
Guide's Route T 
Lord of Wisdom, The T 
Mint Jam T 
No Name Route T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Unknown Semi OW T 
Welcoming Party T 
Unsorted Routes:

No Name Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Stubbs
Page Views: 1,711
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Feb 18, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Up the OW to the steep hands section and finish up...

Description 

This is quality climbing on beautiful stone. This route is located (along with a good selection of other moderate single pitch crack climbs) on the East end of the Lower Mothers Buttress. The trail up from the road leads directly to the Mint Jam chimney, No Name starts just to the right of this obvious route. Climb good hands and fingers for 10 feet to an offwidth section, continue up a short distance to a ledge below a beautiful and slightly overhanging finger crack. Jam away with perfect protection up to another ledge (9+). Finish with an open book corner with wide hands to a large ledge (8). Either walk off to the East or if doing another of the several routes that end on the same ledge, leave an anchor and rap off.


Protection 

Standard rack up to 3 inches.



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By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Oct 4, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route actually has a couple anchor bolts so you can easily lower off w/ a 60m rope.

By John Peterson
Apr 26, 2009

The new trail comes in from the west - you can recognize the start of this / Welcoming Party / Mint Jam as the lowest point of the buttress.

The rating on this depends on hand size. For big hands, this is a solid 10.

By rob pizem
Aug 17, 2011

Short little cruxes with rests and bomber gear in between. Classic and safe.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great line, THIS climb needs a name!

By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 19, 2012

Felt more like a 10, has bolted anchors, great climb.

By Crag Mag22
From: Denver, CO
May 29, 2012

As you can see from the ground, the business of this line is not at all fingers, but the crack does narrow above the crux for about 3 feet.