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No Name Crack 

5.10

   
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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
FA: ?
Submitted By: Dan St. John on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Description 

I missed the on-sight on my first attempt, but got the red point the next day. There are two wide sections that a wasted to much this in. All though both of then short I got worked. I key to completing this route for me was to move fast, and place a little less gear. The pro is great and a fall clean.


Protection 

A lot of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4s, and 1 #1 Camalot at the top as a last placement. I loved this route.



Photos of No Name Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb follows No Name crack, ~2001. Photo by Joseffa Meir(?)

Tony Bubb follows No Name crack, ~2001. Photo by J...

The cruxes are 1/3 and 2/3 up the route at wide spots.  You might consider back cleaning your #3 camalots at thinner sections, unless you have an arsenal of big hand cams.

The cruxes are 1/3 and 2/3 up the route at wide sp...

Greg K at the base of No Name Crack

Greg K at the base of No Name Crack


Comments on No Name Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 25, 2001

This route is to the left of 3 am crack and also starts on a small pillar in a right-facing dihedral. It can be distinguished from 3 am by being a bit wider and lacking a roof. Another beauty of a climb.

By Charles Vernon
From: Florence, AZ
Apr 15, 2002

I liked this route even better than Incredible Hand Crack or 3AM Crack. Look for the no hands rest (which I missed) halfway up. It can be done with a 60 meter rope, barely, but be very careful--one or two downclimbing moves might be necessary. The smaller pillar at the start is loose, so pull gingerly!

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 21, 2005

i've heard not just a few people refer to this as the "4am crack" - its similar but slightly bigger than 3am, right facing corner, etc. - mayber better than yet another nameless crack at the creek -

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.10

This was one of my favorite climbs of our trip. I have big hands, so it was more of an "incredible hand crack" for me than was the real "Incredible Hand Crack."

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008

Indistinguishable from 3am crack. They're the same!!