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No Name Canyon

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No Name Canyon  


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Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Jan 16, 2004
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JD Morgan in No Name, Colorado.

Description 

No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.

Getting There 

No Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile.

The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing No Name Creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',7],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for No Name Canyon:
Boulder Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   NoName Canyon Boulder Probl...
Second Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   East Side : Pink Face area
Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Side : Gray Face area
Electric Butterfly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   East Side : Bridge area
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Poison Ivy Wall
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   East Side : Gray Face area
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad)   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Poison Ivy Wall
Courage   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Jumbled Buttress
Sumac   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Poison Ivy Wall
Thin Crack Variation   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   East Side : Gray Face area
Lightning Bolt Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Poison Ivy Wall
Lone Pine Tree Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Side : Lone Pine Tree wall
The Pink Face   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   East Side : Pink Face area
Browse More Classics in No Name Canyon

Featured Route For No Name Canyon
East side climbs at No Name Canyon.

The Pink Face 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  CO : Glenwood Springs : ... : Pink Face area
The Pink Face is the splitter crack up and to the left of the Jungle Book on the east side of No Name Creek. It is found immediately to the left of a cruiser, 5.6 corner in a striking orange/pink granite face. Follow the trail off of the road up to the Jungle Book/ practice slab and scramble around and up steps to the left. This is a stout, steep climb that is highly recommended. Great jams on vertical to more than vertical rock bring you to a set of chains. Be car...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on No Name Canyon Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
May 5, 2004
Is this a one-rope crag?
By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
May 6, 2004
Generally yes. All the established routes can be done with a single rope. The option exists on the West Side to go "exploring" above the cragging routes. Most of this is low angle with a few worthwhile cracks. You may want a second rope for rappelling off trees and other various anchors. If you really want quality multi pitch routes that require two rope descents in the Glenwood area, head across the Colorado River between the Hanging Lake and Shoshone exits.
By Brosky
Aug 5, 2008
Are there any walk-offs here for top-roping, by chance?
By Lisha
Aug 24, 2008
Just wanted to put the word out to expect somewhat of a nasty approach to the Jungle Book area once you step off the trail/access road. It is a very steep grade and consists of mostly dirt with few solid imbedded rocks for stable foot placement. The local guide makes no mention of this. Awesome rock to climb on and throw some gear into, if you survive the approach!
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 24, 2008
Brosky, It is possible to toprope many of the crags at No Name, some easily done and some not-so-easily. The new guide attempts to give some basic directions for doing so. The Jungle Book area, Lone Tree Wall and Beginners Slab are all reasonably easy to get to with some basic to moderate scrambling.
By rick gardiner
From: Grand Junction, CO,
May 29, 2010
If you pass the first (steep!) side trail up to this crag, there is a much mellower trail angling back up to the wall with a hand line to assist up the loose slope.
By D-Storm
Apr 27, 2011
Thanks, Tyler. I hope Lost Dog sees more action before it gets dirty again. Even then, it should be easy to brush up while hanging on the bolts if need be. I would love to do more routes here at some point. These days I simply lack the time, money and drill.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 7, 2011
I've spied a couple of lines that might be worth climbing. Maybe not though.... Like that splitter line you see on your right side as you walk the flat spot on the road up. The shallow dihedral that is probly over 100' long terminating on a pedestal 2/3 of the way up the Sawatch sandstone wall. Scoped it out one day and it looks like it would take lots of big cams, more than I have for sure. Spotted another dihedral in the buttress up canyon from that one kinda the gully between them really (both of these options would probly be full blown adventure routes complete with lots of choss). There is a granite buttress that sits below these that could be cleaned and turned into a mixed crag. We should get a crew together to develop some new routes.