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 ADVANCED
Chair Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blues for Allah T 
Destination Unknown T,S 
Fender Route (Water Music) T 
Low Pressure T 
no name 5.12d or 5.13a thin crack aka Adrift with the Bajau T,TR 
Right Stuff T 
Thin Ice T 
Toot Suite aka Toot Suit T 
Unsorted Routes:

no name 5.12d or 5.13a thin crack aka Adrift with the Bajau 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: I worked it on toprope
Page Views: 832
Submitted By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007

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Description 

Be the first on your block to get a great first ascent.

This is next to the Water Music on the north side of Chair Rock. I led this thing on aid a couple of times and then top roped and then worked on it a total of a dozen times. I got very close to freeing it. Maybe just a move or two short. Never tried to lead it. I conveniently left for NYC for grad school. I suspect it has been been ignored for years.

I think this could be a great, hard, Platte classic. Short and to the point from beginning to end.

Eds. From Allen Hill, this is distinct from Thin Ice. It also may not have seen a free ascent yet.

Location 

I put some anchors in. I think a couple of pins. Might need to be beefed up. No easy way to the top.

Protection 

Thin thin thin. Brass nuts, off sets, and TCUs. Hell, bang in a knifeblade if need be! I say go for it.


Comments on no name 5.12d or 5.13a thin crack aka Adrift with the Bajau Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 9, 2008

Felt it was somewhere around 5.12b/c on TR and a hell of a lot harder placing gear on lead (haven't done it clean). I replaced the webbing and added two rap rings to the two-bolt anchor during the last week of of June.

Also, per Allen's comment above, I do not think there is any need for a fixed pin on this route. Just my two cents.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 25, 2008

This route now goes free. I'm calling it "Adrift with the Bajau."
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 26, 2008

Good work Jason! (Hoss!)
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 7, 2008

Way to go Jason! I'm happy it finally got finished. I certainly had no interest in it at my advance age.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 7, 2008

Thanks Allen, sorry I didn't make a better effort this summer at connecting with you so you could have come out a few times before I sent it.