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 ADVANCED
Chair Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blues for Allah 
Destination Unknown 
Fender Route (Water Music) 
no name 5.12d or 5.13a thin crack aka Adrift with the Bajau 
Thin Ice 
Toot Suite aka Toot Suit 

no name 5.12d or 5.13a thin crack aka Adrift with the Bajau 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: I worked it on toprope
Page Views: 801
Submitted By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007
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Description 

Be the first on your block to get a great first ascent.

This is next to the Water Music on the north side of Chair Rock. I led this thing on aid a couple of times and then top roped and then worked on it a total of a dozen times. I got very close to freeing it. Maybe just a move or two short. Never tried to lead it. I conveniently left for NYC for grad school. I suspect it has been been ignored for years.

I think this could be a great, hard, Platte classic. Short and to the point from beginning to end.

Eds. From Allen Hill, this is distinct from Thin Ice. It also may not have seen a free ascent yet.


Location 

I put some anchors in. I think a couple of pins. Might need to be beefed up. No easy way to the top.


Protection 

Thin thin thin. Brass nuts, off sets, and TCUs. Hell, bang in a knifeblade if need be! I say go for it.



Comments on no name 5.12d or 5.13a thin crack aka Adrift with the Bajau Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 9, 2008

Felt it was somewhere around 5.12b/c on TR and a hell of a lot harder placing gear on lead (haven't done it clean). I replaced the webbing and added two rap rings to the two-bolt anchor during the last week of of June.

Also, per Allen's comment above, I do not think there is any need for a fixed pin on this route. Just my two cents.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 25, 2008

This route now goes free. I'm calling it "Adrift with the Bajau."

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 26, 2008

Good work Jason! (Hoss!)

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 7, 2008

Way to go Jason! I'm happy it finally got finished. I certainly had no interest in it at my advance age.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 7, 2008

Thanks Allen, sorry I didn't make a better effort this summer at connecting with you so you could have come out a few times before I sent it.