This route is about 50 feet up to the right from "Diagonal" and is just below a small tree on the face. It can be done as one or two pitches. This first pitch by itself is also a good route.
Begin with a great 5.8 flared crack up to the tree. Belay on the right side of the tree at a good ledge if you want to, or continue up on the left side of the tree for one long pitch. At about 20 feet above the tree, follow a small crack with good finger jams going up-and-right. Now test your smearing skills on the face with 2 bolts (crux .10a). Finish above the bolts on a horizontal edge and traverse left to the 2-bolt anchor.
Double-rope rappel to the ground. Another well protected route worth doing. Perfect if you are just getting into 5.10 leads.
If you do this as one long pitch... bring plenty of cams, no larger than a #1 Camalot. Some wired stoppers are helpful, and there's a couple of spots perfect for a CAMP tri-cam. Also bring 2 quickdraws for the bolts on the upper face. TWO-ROPE rappel (150 ft).
I loved leading this the first time I did it. It is a challenging 8+/9- flaring crack. Just a note, the crack may seem fairly easily protected with small nuts or cams but in 2003 I was part of a rescue that hauled someone out after their gear pulled out of the flare. I never did pitch 2, instead after the flare at the tree I traversed right to the belay 10 feet right of the [Diagonal] and continued up routes there.
Note: Read the route description better than I did. I hadn't been on granite for a long time and knew I was going to struggle on this, but after aiding to the 2nd bolt, and taking two ugly falls trying to get to the third, I thought this was the biggest sandbag in the world. I realized later that I had incorrectly jumped on the 2nd pitch of Blood For Oil (5.12a). Sometimes the obvious just doesn't sink in right away.
Enjoyable, varied climbing. Very reasonable to link as one long pitch. The 5.9 crack at the start (Beetle Bailey) is quite tricky and interesting, and the upper face crux is excellent. Save a long, thin sling: After the second bolt, you can reach up and sling a perfect horn to protect the last hard move.
In MNO, the initial flaring crack portion has a lot more "bite" to it than it may look from the ground. My advice is best be solid at 5.8 and a bit more before hopping on to lead this thing. Great fun though! (There is an obvious tree at the end of the initial, flaring crack with slings on it if you wish to quite here an top rope.)