No More Mr Nice Guy
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 15 votes
Type: | Sport, TR |
FA: | peter gernassnig & Bob Cartwright |
Page Views: | 1,162 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | rocknice2 on Sep 21, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
Description
Climb up right facing corner 5.10b to a slab and establish yourself in high shallow corner. Grab the arete on the left [crux] and high step above the last bolt.
An easy 5.8 variation finish climbs out left in another right facing corner.
History
First cleaned and climbed on TR by Peter & Charles Pechousek. We marked where we wanted the bolts to go and were going to borrow Peter's drill and bolt it the next weekend. Peter Gernassnig & Bob Cartwright were going there that week and asked if they could bolt the climb. Lo and behold, didn't they decide to leave out the bolt that protects the crux move at the exit. The resulting decision forced the leader to make hard crux moves over a slab landing. We were pissed to say the least. A friendly argument ensued over the placement of the bolts. We firmly stated the we were no longer going to be nice and give someone else our routes to bolt and promptly bought our own drill.
The route was rarely led for over twenty years as a result because of the dangerous lead fall at the crux. Recently rebolted with glueins and the addition of the missing bolt, the route sees plenty of leads and should soon take it's rightful place as an area classic.
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