Type: Sport, TR
FA: peter gernassnig & Bob Cartwright
Page Views: 1,162 total · 7/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Sep 21, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere

You & This Route


15 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Rigaud COVID-19 special DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climb up right facing corner 5.10b to a slab and establish yourself in high shallow corner. Grab the arete on the left [crux] and high step above the last bolt.

An easy 5.8 variation finish climbs out left in another right facing corner.

Location Suggest change

Right wall inside the gully

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts and top anchors

History Suggest change

First cleaned and climbed on TR by Peter & Charles Pechousek. We marked where we wanted the bolts to go and were going to borrow Peter's drill and bolt it the next weekend. Peter Gernassnig & Bob Cartwright were going there that week and asked if they could bolt the climb. Lo and behold, didn't they decide to leave out the bolt that protects the crux move at the exit. The resulting decision forced the leader to make hard crux moves over a slab landing. We were pissed to say the least. A friendly argument ensued over the placement of the bolts. We firmly stated the we were no longer going to be nice and give someone else our routes to bolt and promptly bought our own drill.

The route was rarely led for over twenty years as a result because of the dangerous lead fall at the crux. Recently rebolted with glueins and the addition of the missing bolt, the route sees plenty of leads and should soon take it's rightful place as an area classic.

Photos

loading