No Money Down 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Tom Armstrong 5/88 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007 |
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dylan sending No Money down 5.10
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Description The far left side of the Meadows is mostly a collection of lower angle slabby climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.9...However all the way left it gets quite steep and there is one line in particular that stands out....
No Money Down is a Gunks like climb that starts in a corner on the left end of The Meadows and goes over a beautiful roof (this was the farthest route left when the last guide was published).... Starting up the corner you climb about 35 feet up on awkward but moderate horizontal edges.... Rest briefly and head up to the roof toward a weird horn and a hueco.... Pull over the roof and, just when you think it's over, you hit the crux.... All the holds seem to be at odd angles, your feet leave something to be desired, and it can be reachy for smaller climbers...but don't despair, one or two moves to the left will deliver the chains....
This was a mostly trad route with one bolt at the crux, but it got bolted recently... So now it is for anyone and everyone to try....
Location Far left end of the Meadows climbing a prominent roof.... after a few routes were added this is now the 3rd route from the left...
Protection 4 or 5 bolts to chains...(was a gear route when the last guide was published).
Working No Money Down before sending it that day. ...
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| Comments on No Money Down |
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d
| Depending on your ability to jam and comfortability on mini-overhangs and slopers this climb can feel much more like a solid 5.10d |
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d
| As of 6/13/07 the fourth bolt (invisible from the ground) is missing its hanger... bring up a nut to sling the bolts with, or find another climb to do. Hope that the hanger gets replaced somewhat soon, this climb is a fun one. |
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Oct 6, 2008
rating: 5.10c
| I climbed on it this past weekend and all the bolts seemed to be there.
Great Climb!!! |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 17, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| does anybody know if this is dry now? |
By Adam Conroy
From: Cambridge, MA
Apr 21, 2009
| It was at the end of the day and I wasn't able to send it but I loved the end of the route. The hueco to the roof is a fun satisfying move and then the sketchy balancing after lets you know why this is a solid 10c. A hearty 4 stars from me. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| this route is the thrid bolted line from the left end of the meadows.
GREAT ROUTE. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 14, 2009
| i updated the directions matt, thanks for pointing out that it was needed... |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| cool lee thank you |
By S. Neoh
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c
| I got re-acquainted with this fine route today after many years; enjoyable as ever. Solid at .10c.
Lee, if you can find decent gear around the last bolt, this is a candidate for an all trad gear ascent. I led this route in 1995 with trad pieces (2?) plus the lone bolt. No problem with gear the 1st half of the climb. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 1, 2010
| yeah i think these days i could do it without the bolt... however, my first time leading it it still only had 1 bolt... i remember being pissed about the retro-bolting but im over it now, haha |
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| Great climb - blew the onsight attempt, but went back yesterday and put her to rest. Fun route! |
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| Is this route supposed to have quick-clips to lower from? Currently the anchor is eyebolt-rapide-rap ring for both bolts. |
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 14, 2012
| Well this route shut me right down on the last hard move this weekend. I went back and got the move on top rope... it just seems harder than 10c to me. Then again, maybe I am doing it wrong. |
By S. Neoh
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| Solid at the grade, as for most if not all of Tom's routes. |
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 15, 2012
| So, after the last bolt, can someone PM me some beta? |
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