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No Money Down 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong 5/88
Page Views: 2,347
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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dylan sending No Money down 5.10
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The far left side of the Meadows is mostly a collection of lower angle slabby climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.9...However all the way left it gets quite steep and there is one line in particular that stands out....

No Money Down is a Gunks like climb that starts in a corner on the left end of The Meadows and goes over a beautiful roof (this was the farthest route left when the last guide was published).... Starting up the corner you climb about 35 feet up on awkward but moderate horizontal edges.... Rest briefly and head up to the roof toward a weird horn and a hueco.... Pull over the roof and, just when you think it's over, you hit the crux.... All the holds seem to be at odd angles, your feet leave something to be desired, and it can be reachy for smaller climbers...but don't despair, one or two moves to the left will deliver the chains....

This was a mostly trad route with one bolt at the crux, but it got bolted recently... So now it is for anyone and everyone to try....


Location 

Far left end of the Meadows climbing a prominent roof.... after a few routes were added this is now the 3rd route from the left...


Protection 

4 or 5 bolts to chains...(was a gear route when the last guide was published).



Photos of No Money Down Slideshow Add Photo
Working No Money Down before sending it that day. A good view of the upper half of the route.
Working No Money Down before sending it that day. ...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 6, 2013
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Depending on your ability to jam and comfortability on mini-overhangs and slopers this climb can feel much more like a solid 5.10d

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

As of 6/13/07 the fourth bolt (invisible from the ground) is missing its hanger... bring up a nut to sling the bolts with, or find another climb to do. Hope that the hanger gets replaced somewhat soon, this climb is a fun one.

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Oct 6, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I climbed on it this past weekend and all the bolts seemed to be there.
Great Climb!!!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 17, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

does anybody know if this is dry now?

By Adam Conroy
From: Cambridge, MA
Apr 21, 2009

It was at the end of the day and I wasn't able to send it but I loved the end of the route. The hueco to the roof is a fun satisfying move and then the sketchy balancing after lets you know why this is a solid 10c. A hearty 4 stars from me.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

this route is the thrid bolted line from the left end of the meadows.
GREAT ROUTE.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 14, 2009

i updated the directions matt, thanks for pointing out that it was needed...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

cool lee thank you

By S. Neoh
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I got re-acquainted with this fine route today after many years; enjoyable as ever. Solid at .10c.

Lee, if you can find decent gear around the last bolt, this is a candidate for an all trad gear ascent. I led this route in 1995 with trad pieces (2?) plus the lone bolt. No problem with gear the 1st half of the climb.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 1, 2010

yeah i think these days i could do it without the bolt... however, my first time leading it it still only had 1 bolt... i remember being pissed about the retro-bolting but im over it now, haha

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great climb - blew the onsight attempt, but went back yesterday and put her to rest. Fun route!

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Is this route supposed to have quick-clips to lower from? Currently the anchor is eyebolt-rapide-rap ring for both bolts.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 14, 2012

Well this route shut me right down on the last hard move this weekend. I went back and got the move on top rope... it just seems harder than 10c to me. Then again, maybe I am doing it wrong.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 15, 2012

So, after the last bolt, can someone PM me some beta?

By Logan Schiff
From: NY, NY
Sep 9, 2013

Thought this was a really fun route that stayed pretty dry even when the rest of the wall was soaked. There is a healthy distance between the last bolt and the chains, though looks like a clean fall. After initially backing off the tricky/balancy last move and hanging on the last bolt, I figured out different much easier beta.

By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Oct 6, 2013

As for many, this seemed WAY hard at the grade. Certainly compared to other semi-classic 10c's at Rumney like Clusterphobia

By S. Neoh
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Welcome to old style, TomA grading. No fluff. Examples - NMD (.10c), Arm & Hammer (.11a), Salley's Alley (.11b), Retrospade (.11c), Paradox (.12c). I believe most are given higher grade these days, except No Money Down.