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The Mustang
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No Mas Boot 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Brault, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, and/or Jim Scott
Season: Full Sun
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jan 13, 2013

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Description 

No Mas Boot begins with twenty feet of less-than-vertical featured face protected by the odd, small weakness. From here ascend a series of large, somewhat grungy pods. Clip the lone bolt before face climbing to the anchors.

Personally I found the climbing enjoyable but the rock questionable for gear placements. There were ample placements but I had trouble trusting them.


Location 

No Mas Boot is the third route from the right. It climbs the largest weaknesses in the sector and can be spotted by the lone bolt above the highest pod. The anchors are shared with Men In Funny Hats.


Protection 

Gear, 1 Bolt, Ring Chains.

A rack spanning small cams, such as C3s, to 2" seemed sufficient. I carried doubles but depending on comfort level and creativity that may be overkill.



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By Jimbo
Jan 31, 2013

John,
This is the first line we did at the stang. It was the first route I did after getting out of a moon boot I had had on for six weeks. I remember thinking the gear was adequate but I was glad to get the bolt in.