No Known Cure  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet, Grade II FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Anonymous Coward on May 21, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start just left of the 5.7 variation start of Hand Jive. Gillett's guide gives this route a star, but once you get above the clean nice looking start, the dihedral is a loose chossy hunk and I wouldn't recommend it. I kept pelting my belayer with the flakes I was touching and occasional quartz knob that pulled off in my hand. This would probably be a good route if it was done more often and cleaned up.

1) Start about 15 feet left of the small pine tree that marks the 5.7 variation of Hand Jive. Stem up a wide slot with little pro and jam/lieback the dihedral where the slot ends. Climb about 100 feet to a point where a wide and very flared horizontal crack shoots out the left side of the dihedral.

2) Traverse left out the horizontal crack, then wander up mostly easy (and clean!) face to the summit.

Protection 

Standard rack.