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West Face
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411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

No Holds for Bonzo 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: Mateo Pee Pee, Jim Schlinkmann 1985
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Aug 27, 2011

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Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


Bonzo might not have had much, but you will. No Holds offers a variety of finger jams, stemming, face climbing and even some possible chimneying all in one pitch. Rarely climbed, but definitely deserving of more attenion. Climb over a bulge and into the corner, following this to the top of the pitch. Unfortunately, this route is often grassy. It can be cleaned on rappel from the Potatoes Alien anchors.


Start in the acute-angled corner a few cracks left of Bloodguard and immediately left of Potatoes Alien.


small-med nuts, finger sized cams. Rappel anchor.

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By CodyE
From: Utah
Aug 3, 2015

This is a great route and is clean as of July 2015

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