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Lover's Leap
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It's a Bird! A Plane! T 
Lover's Leap T 
Lover's Leap Arete T 
No Holds Barred T 
Original Route T 
Rescue Route T 
Something for Nothing T 
Thing, The T 
Unknown T,S 
Ye Olde Hysterical T 

No Holds Barred 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 653
Submitted By: TBD on Oct 25, 2003

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Description 

P1: Start as for Lover's Leap; there are really two possible corner systems to start lovers leap, choose the one on the right. Climb up to an obvious small rectangular roof (approximately 3 ft. x 2.5 ft.), this is visible in the lower photo in the Lover's Leap area description. Climb around this roof to the left. At the next small roof climb straight up through it. Continue to climb straight up past some loose rock and lichen. This is the crux of the pitch, be carefull to check what you are grabbing on to, some tempting holds are very loose. This pitch ends directly below the midway bolts on Lover's Leap. 5.8.

P2: Climb up the left side of the obvious roof. The climbing is a bit tricky and a tad run out until you can place under the roof. After surmounting the roof (5.9), rail up and right along a good crack to a fixed pin. Clip the pin and climb straight up the corners, cracks, and edges above, 5.8+. Pro is a little tricky, but it is all there. Continue up some easier ground to the left side of a large ledge. Continue straight up the ever steepening (is that a word?) face above your stance on the ledge. Your first placement above the ledge is in a chossy crack at a small bulge. Run it out past this piece towards an obvious "v" notch, 5.6 s. Below the notch, load up the small diagonal seam with RPs and/or a #3 Ball nut. Pull up a little farther and place an ok cam. Pull up through the notch into the "v" shaped dihedral, 5.8+. Stem, chimney, and grovel unprotected up the somewhat dirty dihedral to a roof at its end, 5.7s. Pull around the right side of the roof and continue straight up to a large ledge, 5.5 s/vs. At the ledge you can set a belay (to try one of the exciting options above), continue up and right to finish after clipping the good bolt to the climber right, or travers left to the belay bolts below the exit cracks on Lover's Leap.

Combining the second pitch with the first pitch of Something For Nothing would make for a two star outing. The first pitch as described above is not that good, and detracts from the overall quality of the route.


Protection 

Standard rack, RPs and Ball nutz.



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