No Goats, No Glory runs up the left side of the main headwall in two pitches. P1 surmounts a small roof on jugs for 5.10d. The rock to start is friable, but quickly improves at the second clip. There is a double bolt anchor at 50 feet in a good stance. P2 is a classic on brilliant stone. The first four clips entail some tricky finger work leading out right to a band of black streaked stone, the crux. Pulling through this gains a brilliant slab that just gets better and better the higher you go. While it can be done in a couple of ways, my favorite move works the right margin of the slab and picks up some instant exposure. A killer rest arises on a tiny edge poised over the precipice. FFA went to Nevada Montigue while we were trading attempts.
A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope. This route is composed of two pitches. P1 is 5.10d. P2 is 5.12a. A 60 m rope will just touch ground from the double bolt anchor at the top of P2. A 50 m rope will not.
Paavo at the first steep moves.
|Comments on No Goats, No Glory
|By Chris O'Connor|
From: bouldertown, co
Sep 6, 2006
In the beta photo with the power lines, this is route #4.
|By Eric Peers|
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
I would give this more on the order of a 5.12b. The middle part of pitch 2 felt somewhat difficult for my 5'7" frame. Very reachy.
The 5.11 section on the start of the second pitch was stellar. Very tricky climbing, but very doable.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
The moves getting into the second pitch near the arete are interesting. Lead as one single pitch, this is a pumpy one. Would be way more stars if the rock was better.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 14, 2010
P1 has a short bit of good hard climbing at maybe 10d. The horizontal at the crux is a little dirty and rounded. Climbing that last move straight up is quite hard. Moving left is a bit easier. It may also be possible to move right.