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 ADVANCED
Goat Rock
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BaaaD To The Bone S 
Bad, Bad Goat S 
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Empire of the Goats S 
Eric The Goat S 
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Goat Goes Up, Must Come Down S 
Goats in the Hood S 
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High Flying Goats S 
No Goats, No Glory S 
Olympic Free Style Goat Toss S 
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No Goats, No Glory 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Wright & Montague, 2001. FFA Montigue.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 737
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 24, 2001

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Paavo Thabit reaching left at the P1 crux. P2 asce...

Description 

No Goats, No Glory runs up the left side of the main headwall in two pitches. P1 surmounts a small roof on jugs for 5.10d. The rock to start is friable, but quickly improves at the second clip. There is a double bolt anchor at 50 feet in a good stance. P2 is a classic on brilliant stone. The first four clips entail some tricky finger work leading out right to a band of black streaked stone, the crux. Pulling through this gains a brilliant slab that just gets better and better the higher you go. While it can be done in a couple of ways, my favorite move works the right margin of the slab and picks up some instant exposure. A killer rest arises on a tiny edge poised over the precipice. FFA went to Nevada Montigue while we were trading attempts.

Protection 

A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope. This route is composed of two pitches. P1 is 5.10d. P2 is 5.12a. A 60 m rope will just touch ground from the double bolt anchor at the top of P2. A 50 m rope will not.


Photos of No Goats, No Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Paavo at the first steep moves.
Paavo at the first steep moves.

Comments on No Goats, No Glory Add Comment
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By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Sep 6, 2006

In the beta photo with the power lines, this is route #4.
By Eric Peers
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I would give this more on the order of a 5.12b. The middle part of pitch 2 felt somewhat difficult for my 5'7" frame. Very reachy.

The 5.11 section on the start of the second pitch was stellar. Very tricky climbing, but very doable.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The moves getting into the second pitch near the arete are interesting. Lead as one single pitch, this is a pumpy one. Would be way more stars if the rock was better.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 14, 2010

P1 has a short bit of good hard climbing at maybe 10d. The horizontal at the crux is a little dirty and rounded. Climbing that last move straight up is quite hard. Moving left is a bit easier. It may also be possible to move right.