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Goat Rock
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No Goats, No Glory 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 2 pitches, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Wright & Montague, 2001. FFA Montigue.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 24, 2001
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Paavo Thabit reaching left at the P1 crux. P2 asce...

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Description 

No Goats, No Glory runs up the left side of the main headwall in two pitches. P1 surmounts a small roof on jugs for 5.10d. The rock to start is friable, but quickly improves at the second clip. There is a double bolt anchor at 50 feet in a good stance. P2 is a classic on brilliant stone. The first four clips entail some tricky finger work leading out right to a band of black streaked stone, the crux. Pulling through this gains a brilliant slab that just gets better and better the higher you go. While it can be done in a couple of ways, my favorite move works the right margin of the slab and picks up some instant exposure. A killer rest arises on a tiny edge poised over the precipice. FFA went to Nevada Montigue while we were trading attempts.


Protection 

A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope. This route is composed of two pitches. P1 is 5.10d. P2 is 5.12a. A 60 m rope will just touch ground from the double bolt anchor at the top of P2. A 50 m rope will not.



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Paavo at the first steep moves.
Paavo at the first steep moves.
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By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Sep 6, 2006

In the beta photo with the power lines, this is route #4.

By Eric Peers
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I would give this more on the order of a 5.12b. The middle part of pitch 2 felt somewhat difficult for my 5'7" frame. Very reachy.

The 5.11 section on the start of the second pitch was stellar. Very tricky climbing, but very doable.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The moves getting into the second pitch near the arete are interesting. Lead as one single pitch, this is a pumpy one. Would be way more stars if the rock was better.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 14, 2010

P1 has a short bit of good hard climbing at maybe 10d. The horizontal at the crux is a little dirty and rounded. Climbing that last move straight up is quite hard. Moving left is a bit easier. It may also be possible to move right.