Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Goat Rock
Select Route:
BaaaD To The Bone 
Bad, Bad Goat 
Capra Diem 
Clan Of The Goatmen 
Empire of the Goats 
Eric The Goat 
Goat Arete 
Goat Goes Up, Must Come Down 
Goats in the Hood 
Goats on the Fringe 
High Flying Goats 
No Goats, No Glory 
Olympic Free Style Goat Toss 
Sacrificial Goat 
Solitary Goat 

No Goats, No Glory 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 2 pitches, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Wright & Montague, 2001. FFA Montigue.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 24, 2001
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Paavo Thabit reaching left at the P1 crux. P2 asce...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


No Goats, No Glory runs up the left side of the main headwall in two pitches. P1 surmounts a small roof on jugs for 5.10d. The rock to start is friable, but quickly improves at the second clip. There is a double bolt anchor at 50 feet in a good stance. P2 is a classic on brilliant stone. The first four clips entail some tricky finger work leading out right to a band of black streaked stone, the crux. Pulling through this gains a brilliant slab that just gets better and better the higher you go. While it can be done in a couple of ways, my favorite move works the right margin of the slab and picks up some instant exposure. A killer rest arises on a tiny edge poised over the precipice. FFA went to Nevada Montigue while we were trading attempts.


A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope. This route is composed of two pitches. P1 is 5.10d. P2 is 5.12a. A 60 m rope will just touch ground from the double bolt anchor at the top of P2. A 50 m rope will not.

Photos of No Goats, No Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Paavo at the first steep moves.
Paavo at the first steep moves.
Comments on No Goats, No Glory Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Sep 6, 2006

In the beta photo with the power lines, this is route #4.

By Eric Peers
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I would give this more on the order of a 5.12b. The middle part of pitch 2 felt somewhat difficult for my 5'7" frame. Very reachy.

The 5.11 section on the start of the second pitch was stellar. Very tricky climbing, but very doable.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The moves getting into the second pitch near the arete are interesting. Lead as one single pitch, this is a pumpy one. Would be way more stars if the rock was better.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 14, 2010

P1 has a short bit of good hard climbing at maybe 10d. The horizontal at the crux is a little dirty and rounded. Climbing that last move straight up is quite hard. Moving left is a bit easier. It may also be possible to move right.