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7. Sunday Buttress
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Avoiding the Bat 
Balcony Center 
Balcony Right 
Cactus Capers 
No Go Crack 
Warrior's Waltz 

No Go Crack 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Oct 8, 2006
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Rousey pulling through the hard stuff on No Go Cra...


Climbs the flaring short crack above the lower overhang. Start a few feet left of Balcony Center going up the black face. Engage the crack and sloping edges (crux) up to the balcony. Finish up the left side of the balcony.


Standard Blue Mounds toprope, long slings may be helpful.

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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 8, 2006

Trad leadable. Runout but easy to the overhang. Don't expect to sew it up.

By Taylor Lais
From: Sioux Falls, SD
May 13, 2013

Does anyone know if this thing has ever seen a true ascent on lead?

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
May 15, 2013

The first Farris guidebook says it has but I don't know who or when.

By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I am sure this has been led. Reed told me leading this was one of the last things he did in BMSP. Honestly, not that hard of a route once you know the sequence (assuming it isn't muggy;P) the crux is easily protect-able, and I think some piece near the jug after the crux would protect the mantle. Classic BM style headpoint.