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 ADVANCED
7. Sunday Buttress
Select Route:
Avoiding the Bat TR 
Balcony Center TR 
Balcony Right T,TR 
Cactus Capers TR 
No Go Crack T,TR 
Warrior's Waltz TR 

No Go Crack 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Oct 8, 2006

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Rousey pulling through the hard stuff on No Go Cra...

Description 

Climbs the flaring short crack above the lower overhang. Start a few feet left of Balcony Center going up the black face. Engage the crack and sloping edges (crux) up to the balcony. Finish up the left side of the balcony.

Protection 

Standard Blue Mounds toprope, long slings may be helpful.


Comments on No Go Crack Add Comment
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 8, 2006

Trad leadable. Runout but easy to the overhang. Don't expect to sew it up.
By Taylor Lais
From: Black Hills, SD
May 13, 2013

Does anyone know if this thing has ever seen a true ascent on lead?
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
May 15, 2013

The first Farris guidebook says it has but I don't know who or when.
By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I am sure this has been led. Reed told me leading this was one of the last things he did in BMSP. Honestly, not that hard of a route once you know the sequence (assuming it isn't muggy;P) the crux is easily protect-able, and I think some piece near the jug after the crux would protect the mantle. Classic BM style headpoint.