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No Gaynor T 
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No Gaynor 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 344
Submitted By: Mike Stearns on Aug 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Climb a thin seam up and slightly right. Eventually you will have to traverse over to the Hogwild anchors. The sooner you do, the more run out it is.

Like Hogwild, you need a 70 m rope to top rope this route.


Fifteen feet left of Hogwild.


2 x 0.5 to 2" says the guidebook. I also brought small c3's and master cams, and placed them.

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By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This gets 5.9 in the Supertopo guide but it seemed easier than the alleged 5.7 next door. One tricky move at about 30' and the rest is no more than 5.6. Very well-protected apart from the traverse to the bolts.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This route starts with a short but fun and almost vertical lieback. Then comes a short section with a thin seem that does not protect. Seemed like a couple of easy 5.9 moves. I was able to get in a 00 Master Cam at the top of this section. After that it is about 5.6 and protects well. I climbed up to the same height as the anchor and then traversed right about 20 feet of runout to the anchor.
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