|By Justin Larrabee|
Oct 18, 2010
Led this route the other day, and overall it was quite unenjoyable. The first crux at the beginning was the highlight and required some searching to find the proper move. After that comes a very uninspired midsection followed by what appears to be a very fun undercling move. However, after making the move up to the left of the undercling, there is no place to go as you are jammed under the large ceiling with no feet and no hands (and also quite a ways left of your last clip). So, you then have to climb the boring right edge of the small face up to the ceiling and final crux. The bolt placement on the final crux is somewhat sketchy as it is placed far out on the overhang, and the fall line is not well protected -- a fall will have you crashing down onto the not-quite-so-vertical slab where your last bolt is. However, the final move to the anchor can be made somewhat interesting with a heel hook and usage of the left edge to work your way up.
Another issue I had with this route was that it made a terrible TR route to play around on. After setting it up for a few friends, I found that if they peeled off the upper ceiling, they ended up spinning around the rope and had to be lowered to actually get back to the rock.
I also found the 10a rating to be misleading. The opening and final crux are more in the 10c/d range, while the middle is at its hardest a 9.
If this route were a person, I would not be friends with it.