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 ADVANCED
(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 
Kashmir S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

No Friction 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1988. W. Wallace
Page Views: 829
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jul 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Me leading Friction

Description 

This route packs in easy crack climbing, a bouldery roof, and a slab into a compact 50 feet. Start on the leaning columns (the cracks here eat small to medium nuts) and move up to a roof sequence protected by two bolts. Pull through the roof on good holds to the slab above, which provides 10 more feet of climbing to the anchors.

Location 

On the far right side of the Red Wall. Look for an arcing line of columns up to the bolted roof.

Protection 

Small to medium nuts, two quickdraws.


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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Feb 3, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

All lead bolts have been upgraded to SS bolts and hangers
By Josh Golden Eagle
Feb 21, 2015

After you put this route up, you can top rope Shoot From the Hip, as it uses the same anchor.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Added steel biners and chains to the anchor.
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