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Kind of a silly route considering the neighborhood it's in, nevertheless, this short line allows a taste of the Gold Coast without the sticker shock.
Mountaineer your way up to the base (clipping in the belayer to the first bolt isn't a bad idea). Head up and left clipping bolts while contemplating whether or not the big foot ramp is off route. Eventually leave the ramp and head up on extremely desperate climbing with the everpresent fear of a ledge fall. Eventually make an awkward mantle onto an insecure ledge to clip the chains.
Just to the right of the main Gold Coast Wall, on a short but steep gold wall. This is the left-most route on that wall.
Jun 27, 2012
The crux is not getting stung by the wasps that live on route.
By W. Spaller
Jan 3, 2013
I acually really enjoyed this route. The bolts are so close together you don't need to worry about falling. Also the clips aren't very hard even if 11d is at your limit.