No Ethics Required  5.10b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Dave Bowman & Bob Robertson, 1980 Submitted By:  Bosier Parsons on Mar 19, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bill Weiss just getting started.

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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>> The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a good face route that climbs thin edges through a bulge. The route is pretty sustained 5.9, with one crux at the fourth piton, involving tricky and thin footwork. This fourth piton is a bit difficult to clip for shorter climbers. It is definitely much harder route than Son of Tidrick's or Place in the Sun.

Location 

This route is located on the Finger Face, just left of Son of Tidrick's. Climb the Tourist Gully and belay from the third large eyebolt. From here, you step down a bit, then traverse right about 20 feet to reach the first ring-angle piton.

Protection 

5 drilled pitons. 2 pin anchor.

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Bill Weiss just below the crux.	Bill Weiss descends. He's just a little below the...	Myong crimping her way up No Ethics.
What a great climb!