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No Escaping Death 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James Garrett
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 786
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is to the left of the main selection of Sport routes on Escape Buttress. It was first climbed about one week after the death of Steve Carruthers, hence the name and he should never be forgotten in the climbing lore of the Wasatch.

The route starts next to a scrubby tree that may still be there and immediately goes up and right past 9 bolts to some huge jugs to clean, fun edges. It ends on a little ledge with a rap station with one chain vertically above a fixed ring hanger.

Probably still needs to get cleaned up a bit which would come with more traffic. I think most people enjoy this pitch.Previously unreported...anyone do this route and not know what it was?

Immediately to the left are two Tim Wolfe routes that are 5.11ish. NED is certainly no harder than 5.10a, so if you are climbing that hard, you must be too far left or completely off route.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor


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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2005

These are good routes and because they are not in the guidebook a lot of people never notice that they are there; the main Escape Buttress area will be crowded and no one will be on these; I always point these routes out to people and try to get more traffic on them. You do have to scramble up a bit through some easy choss to get to the real climbing, so it is easy not to notice them. The 10a is long, juggy and fun. The leftmost 11b/c is great;diverse climbing that keeps getting harder to the pumpy crux at the end.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2005

First 3 bolts are on loose crappy rock. Doesn't come close to the quality of the 2 routes left of it.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 7, 2007

Only the first bolt is easily visible from the ground when you are standing beneath the route (the bolt is above a good-sized roof)). Have faith, however, the bolts are there. Head up and right from the first bolt.
By Robert MacKinnon
Nov 16, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree that the climbing is pretty good (after the first three bolts). However because it is fairly dirty still and very sharp up higher I only give it one star.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Some buddies and I spent some time cleaning this one up yesterday. There is still probably some loose stuff, but we got rid of a lot of it. Way jagged little crimps up top. I'm surprised I didn't bleed a little.