No Direction Home
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BETA PHOTO: No Direction Home. Climb a steep thin crack and a...
Start just right of Tese. Climb up fun layback moves to a small roof. Clip a bolt and make a strenuous move up to the next clip. Power up and over the bigger roof to good holds. Power over the roof past six more bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Ten clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.
|Comments on No Direction Home
Jul 30, 2007
Good route! Best I've done at Sherwood. Really fun movement into the roof section.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
Good climb, missed the undercling under the roof and was happy to get the jugs after matchin' on those little crimps. Still, not harder than 11- unless you completely miss something.
It was nice that all the routes went the distance now- it adds some quality and length to them and makes them all the more interesting. The upper arete on this one was fun too.
|By Aeon Aki|
Jul 18, 2010
Tony B sums it up perfectly.
I counted 12 + 2 to the top chains.
|By Mark E Dixon|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2011
I agree, really fun. An optimistic attitude will be rewarded. Might be a little height dependent.
There's a lowering anchor one more bolt past the crux roof, which I unwittingly used, so can't comment on the upper part.
|By Clint Locks|
Jul 11, 2011
It is possible to walk off to the west from the top of this route. As of now, it's quite steep, brushy ,and loose. That said, it's probably just as easy to rap...carefully.
Jun 14, 2012
It would have been better to easily clip the bolt at the roof from the stance below it, instead of clipping it off of the steep greasy sidepull (I didn't find the hidden jug until afterwards). Felt like an 11c clip with 5.10 climbing.