|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Season:||Spring to fall|
|Submitted By:||Jaaron Mankins on Aug 21, 2011|
|Comments on No Country For Old Men||Add Comment|
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By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Apr 24, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
A few notes:
Approach - from Nuggernaut, you'll pass a fairly large amphitheater with a huge cave, continue past this one to a smaller amphitheater just 'up and around to the left'. See the photos.
Climb - for pitch two, I believe we were just a tad too far right. A fun line but certainly not 'killer'. I'm excited to go back and check out the actual pitch two, as this certainly looks to be the best pitch of the climb. See the photos. The crux pitch was so-so, too short. After this, we ended up soloing to the summit. Basically, this climb is over once you finish the short crux crack.
Descent - follow cairns from the summit southeast-ish to a bolted rap anchor. Make one single rope rap to a large tree with webbing. From here, make a double rope rap to a small, singular tree with webbing. Another double rope rap will get you to a bolt and fixed nut (webbing/cord could use an update). From here, make a double rope rap to a large terrace with a two bolt anchor. One more double rope rap will get you to the base of the Nuggernaut.
Gear - I believe a generous rack would be doubles to #4 C4, nuts, slings, and two 60m ropes. Next time I head up there, I'll probably bring a single set to #4 C4, nuts, hexes, and tri-cams. Fun stuff.
As of now, I prefer the Nuggernaut route but am anxious to give the standard pitch two a go. The Nuggernaut offers what I believe to be a more direct line/route finding and more sustained climbing at about the 5.7-5.8 level. Five good pitches of more technical climbing vs. 3 pitches and some scrambling.
A great adventure either way.