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No Cherry For Old Men
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.2 from 5
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Routes in Tradistan Tower
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Da Cherry on Top! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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No Cherry For Old Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Country For Old Men T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nuggernaut T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pine Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thundercats are Go! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 |
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| Type: | Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | ED, JSM |
| Page Views: | 2,145 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | e Dixon on Jul 9, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The route starts in the same dihedral as for Nuggernaut, then it moves out right and follows a series of cracks and corners to the top of Tradistan Tower. The rock quality and protection are surprisingly good. All belays are at good comfortable ledges. It is a nice, moderate outing with an adventurous feel and great views. Pitch lengths, ratings, and details are described the best as I can remember.
P1: Start up the same left-facing dihedral as for Nuggernaut and climb it for about 75' to a belay at a tree out right on a large ledge (~75', 5.8).
P2: Scramble up and right over a few loose blocks and climb a small corner. At the corner's top, traverse right passing under a ^ shaped roof, and do an exposed step right to a ledge and belay (~75', 5.7).
P3: Climb the face, pull a small bulge, and continue into a small corner that leads to a large ledge with a tree (~75', 5.7).
P4: Climb nondescript terrain following cracks and corners to the next large ledge with a tree (~150', 5.6).
P5: Continue up more cracks and corners to the next large ledge and belay below a large tree in a corner with a chockstone above (~175', 5.6).
P6: Climb the corner/groove past the tree and under the chockstone. Continue up and right on easy ledges (some loose blocks through here), and belay at a ledge (~175', 5.6).
P7: Move the belay left, to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the fist to finger-sized corner to the summit (~50', 5.7).
Descent: 5 rappels to get down. Find the summit cairn and look for another cairn down SE-ish and a semi-hidden bolted anchor. (1) Do a single rope rappel (15m) to a tree with slings. (2) Do a double rope rappel (61m) to another tree with slings. (3) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to a bolt/fixed nut anchor. (4) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to two bolts on a large ledge. (5) Do a double rope rappel (50m) to the base of Nuggernaut.
P1: Start up the same left-facing dihedral as for Nuggernaut and climb it for about 75' to a belay at a tree out right on a large ledge (~75', 5.8).
P2: Scramble up and right over a few loose blocks and climb a small corner. At the corner's top, traverse right passing under a ^ shaped roof, and do an exposed step right to a ledge and belay (~75', 5.7).
P3: Climb the face, pull a small bulge, and continue into a small corner that leads to a large ledge with a tree (~75', 5.7).
P4: Climb nondescript terrain following cracks and corners to the next large ledge with a tree (~150', 5.6).
P5: Continue up more cracks and corners to the next large ledge and belay below a large tree in a corner with a chockstone above (~175', 5.6).
P6: Climb the corner/groove past the tree and under the chockstone. Continue up and right on easy ledges (some loose blocks through here), and belay at a ledge (~175', 5.6).
P7: Move the belay left, to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the fist to finger-sized corner to the summit (~50', 5.7).
Descent: 5 rappels to get down. Find the summit cairn and look for another cairn down SE-ish and a semi-hidden bolted anchor. (1) Do a single rope rappel (15m) to a tree with slings. (2) Do a double rope rappel (61m) to another tree with slings. (3) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to a bolt/fixed nut anchor. (4) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to two bolts on a large ledge. (5) Do a double rope rappel (50m) to the base of Nuggernaut.
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